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Book_ 


5 ^7 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 


v 















KNITTING AND SEWING 

MAUD CHURCHILL NICOLL 








KNITTING AND 
SEWING 

How to Make Seventy Useful Articles 
for Men in the Army and Navy 

BY 

MAUD CHURCHILL NICOLL 



NEW YORK 

GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY 



















A si 


Copyright, 1918 
By George H. Doran Company 



Printed in the United States of America 


S 0!. A 5 o;i 4 «.’G 

SEP 16 1918 

~ y >/0 • I ' 

,■< : 

• ( 


\ K I 


INTRODUCTION 


This little book was composed under unusual 
conditions. 

My wife, whose book this is, was one of those 
Americans who, from the outbreak of the War in 
Europe, was fjassionately attached to the cause of 
the Allies, and religiously believed, after the inva¬ 
sion of Belgium and Northern France, that it was 
the duty of our country, without delay or attempts 
at neutrality, to come to their support. 

In December, 1914, she began a course in nursing 
at the Y. W. C. A., and by April of 1915 had com¬ 
pleted her course and received her diploma. 

In July, 1915, she went abroad for service in Eng¬ 
land, but had hardly begun when she was run down 
by an automobile and barely escaped with her life. 

Ever since then she has lived in London, neces¬ 
sarily spending a large part of her time in bed, and 
after two and one-half years of treatment is still 
unable to walk, except a little with crutches. 

During her long convalescence she devoted her¬ 
self to knitting and sewing for the soldiers and 
sailors. Many of her friends among them were 
constantly coming and going, and from them she 
learned at first hand just what their needs were, and 
in what articles they found the most comfort. 

[v] 


INTRODUCTION 


She then decided to put the result of her experi¬ 
ence in a book, in the hope that it might be useful 
to others who were knitting and sewing, or willing 
to knit and sew, for the cause, feeling that in that 
way she could make her largest contribution to the 
comfort and welfare of the boys at the front. 

It is interesting to note that the book was writ¬ 
ten at her home in London, situated near the Anti- 
Aircraft Battery in Hyde Park, during the period 
of the Zeppelin and Gotha raids, some twenty-five 
in number, from which the author escaped without 
injury of any kind. 

All profits from the sale of the book accruing 
to either author or publisher are dedicated to the 
American Red Cross. 

Delancey Nicoll. 


[vi] 


PUBLISHER’S NOTE 


This book, written by an American in England, 
specifies the use of certain English yarns. 

Because of restriction of importation, some of these 
English yarns are not obtainable in the United 
States. 

Purchasers are advised that American merchants 
and retailers are prepared to offer satisfactory sub¬ 
stitutes for standard English yarns. 

The following suggestions will enable purchasers to 
determine the equivalent American wools for the 
English yarns mentioned throughout the instruc¬ 
tions in the pages of this book: 

4-fold Germantown for 4-ply petticoat wool 

4-fold Germantown or Lady Betty for 4-ply fleecy 
wool 

A soft heavy quality of knitting or Scotch yarn 
for 4-ply double knitting 

Llama wool for 3-thread Thibet Llama 

Llama wool used double for 6-thread Thibet 
Llama 

A coarse, wiry knitting yarn for 3- or 4-ply wheel¬ 
ing 

Coarse, shaggy knitting yarn for 3-ply Fisher¬ 
man’s yarn 

Scotch yarn exceedingly soft in texture for 5- or 
6-ply fingering 


[vii] 




































J 














v 





CONTENTS 


PAGE 


Illustrated Wools .xiii 

Preliminary Instructions.17 

Illustrated Wools .xiii 

Simple Helmet.20 

Balaclava Helmet.23 

Peary Helmet.26 

Sleeping Helmet.30 

Skull Cap.32 

Cap and Muffler Combined.33 

Muffler, in Basket Stitch .35 

Muffler, in Plain Stitch.37 

Five Fancy Stitches for Mufflers.38 


Single Brioche Stitch 
Double Brioche Stitch 
Cardigan, or 1 & 1 Rib Stitch 
Diagonal Stitch 
Triangle Stitch 

Scarf .44 

Chest Protector.46 

Singlet .49 

Plain Armlet.52 

Ribbed Armlet.54 

Gloves.56 

Fingerless Gloves .61 

[Lx] 























CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Mittens.63 

Rifle Mittens.67 

Steering Mittens.70 

Heavy Steering Mittens.73 

Thumbless Half-Mittens.77 

Doddies..79 

Hand Protectors.84 

Wristlets.86 

Mine-Sweeper’s Gloves.87 

“Mellor” Mine-Sweeper’s Gloves.93 

Plain Jersey.97 

Naval Jersey.100 

Coat Sweater.105 

Coat Sweater, in Lighter Weight.108 

Knitted Waistcoat, in Block Stitch.112 

Three Fancy Stitches for Waistcoats: . 114 

Cobble Stitch 
Cross Stitch 
Diamond Stitch 

Body Belt (Shaped).117 

Body Belt (Circular).119 

Body Belt (Ribbed).121 

Knee Caps.123 

Plain Socks.125 

Heavier Socks, in 6-ply Fingering.136 

Heavier Socks, in 3-ply Wheeling.138 

Ribbed Socks.142 

Trench Stockings.144 


[X] 



















CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Seamen’s Stockings.148 

Ribbed Stockings.153 

Puttee Stockings.157 

Bed Socks.165 

Double Knitted Bed Socks.169 

Money Belt.172 

Money Belt, to be Worn Underneath the Cloth¬ 
ing .174 

Chamois Leather Body Protector.176 

Chamois Leather Waistcoat.178 

Chamois Leather Undershirt and Short Drawers 180 

Chamois Leather Socks.183 

Heavy Pyjamas.186 

Crocheted Silk Ties.188 

Double Crochet 

Treble Crochet 


1 row Treble and 3 rows double Crochet Combined 
A Fancy Stitch 

1 Plain and Double Crochet Combined 


“Curzon” Design 

Knitted Silk Tie.194 

Forecastle Book Bag.196 

Ditty Bag or Housewife.198 

Air Pillow Cover.201 

Oilsilk Tobacco Pouch.203 

Sock Block.205 

Teazle Brush.206 

Needle Gauge. 207 


[xi] 





















ILLUSTRATED WOOLS 


No. 1. 3-ply Rabbit Wool. 

Natural colour 

No. 2. J. & J. Baldwin’s 

3- ply Fisherman’s Yarn. 

Sea blue 

No. 3. Paton’s 3-ply Wheeling. 

Khaki colour 

No. 4. Paton’s 3-ply Wheeling. 

Navy blue 

No. 5. 4-ply Super-Petticoat Wool. 

White 

No. 6 . 4-ply Jaeger Angora Wool. 

Natural colour 

No. 7. Paton’s 4-ply Wheeling. 

Dark grey 

No. 8. J. & J. Baldwin’s 

4- ply Petticoat Wool 

Navy blue 

No. 9. J. & J. Baldwin’s 

4-ply “White Heather” Fleecy Wool 
Natural colour, No. 4003^ 

No. 10. W. H. Head & Son’s 

4-ply Scotch Fingering. 

Navy blue 

No. 11. W. H. Head & Son’s 

4-ply Scotch Fingering. 

Khaki colour 

[xii] 



ILLUSTRATED WOOLS. 
ACTUAL SIZE AND COLOR 







ILLUSTRATED WOOLS 

No. 12. W. H. Head & Son’s 

4-ply Scotch Fingering. 

Natural colour 

No. 13. W. H. Head & Son’s 

4- ply Scotch Fingering. 

Grey 

No. 14. J. & J. Baldwin’s 

“Beehive” 4-ply Double Knitting. 
Navy blue, No. 133 

No. 15. J. & J. Baldwin’s 

“Beehive” 4-ply Double Knitting. 
Khaki colour 

No. 16. Baldwin & Walker’s 

“Ladyship” 5-ply Scotch Fingering. 
Colour No. 73 

No. 17. Baldwin & Walker’s 

5- ply Scotch Fingering. 

Natural colour 

No. 18. W. H. Head & Son’s 

6- ply Scotch Fingering. 

Light grey 

No. 19. W. H. Head & Son’s 

6-thread Thibet Llama Wool 
Natural colour. Article 23 

No. 20. No. 5 Macrame Twine 

[xiv] 



ILLUSTRATED WOOLS. 
ACTUAL SIZE AND COLOR. 











KNITTING AND SEWING 

















KNITTING AND SEWING 


PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS 

Unless otherwise directed cast on and cast off 
loosely. 

In joining wool ravel out both ends for 3 inches, 
break off half the strands of one end, lay the remain¬ 
ing strands together in opposition, drawing them 
through each other, moisten the palms and rub the 
joined part between them, knit this joining without 
pulling it. All wool should be joined this way in 
preference to tying a knot. 

There are two ways of slipping a stitch: as though 
about to knit it and as though to purl it. Use the 
first on knitting rows and patterns and the latter 
on purling rows and patterns. 

There are three ways of increasing: 

(1) Throwing the wool over the top of the needle 
between two stitches, and knitting off this throw over 
as a stitch on the next row; this makes a small pat¬ 
tern : 

(2) Knitting first in the front of the loop and 
then in the back of the loop before slipping the 
stitch off the left hand needle; this also makes a 
small pattern: 


[ 17 ] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


(3) Knitting up a stitch in the loop of the stitch 
underneath, i.e., the stitch of the preceding row; this 
hardly shows. 

In narrowing, knitting two stitches together in the 
front loops of the stitches will make the narrowing 
slant from left to right. Knitting two stitches to¬ 
gether in the back loops of the stitches will make the 
narrowing slant from right to left. 

Press knitting with a damp cloth over it and an 
iron that is not too hot, as wool scorches easily. As 
a rule, do not press ribbing and fancy knitting, as 
it flattens out the pattern. 

In the crochet directions the English terms are 
used—treble, called double crochet in America, 
throwing the thread once over the needle before 
picking up a loop; double crochet, called single 
crochet in America, picking up a loop without throw¬ 
ing the thread over the needle. 

All articles in pairs, such as socks, gloves, etc., 
should be tacked together with a bit of wool when 
finished, and all knitted articles should have a few 
cut needlefuls of the same wool twisted into a small 
hank and sewed to them, for mending purposes. 

Mark all articles with the name in full, with in¬ 
delible ink, on linen tape, or with Cash’s woven 
names. 

English wools have been illustrated and given in 
this book, but if they are unprocurable, any wool 
in the same ply and texture will do. Fingering, 
sometimes called Scotch Fingering, the wool re¬ 
quired for socks, usually is called knitting yarn in 

[ 18 ] 


PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS 


America. Wheeling is also a coarser yarn; fleecy 
wool is our ordinary soft Germantown wool. Double 
knitting is like it. Petticoat wool is like these last 
two wools, only a little thicker. 

The best English yarns are made by J. & J. Bald¬ 
win, Ltd., Halifax, England, and may be procured 
at Alice Maynard’s, 18 West 46th Street, New l r ork 
City, or from Gault Bros., Montreal, Canada. 

A steel knitting gauge is convenient to have as all 
needles are not of the standard sizes and correctly 
marked. It is essential to use the same size needles 
and ply and texture of wool given in these directions 
if the same result is to be achieved. 

The directions for the Puttee Stocking, Improved 
Mine-Sweeper’s Glove, and Fancy Crocheted Tie, 
“Curzon” design, are inserted with acknowledg¬ 
ment to—W. H. Head & Son, 191 a Sloan Street, 
London, S.W., whose Copyright they are. 

The Plain Jersey, Coat Sweater and Chest Protec¬ 
tor have been copied from the little pamphlet pub¬ 
lished by J. & J. Baldwin, Ltd., Halifax, England, 
called “Knitted Comforts.” 


[19J 


SIMPLE IIELMET 


4 bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
8. 2 balls of 6 thread Thibet Llama wool, or 2 y 2 

ounces of 4-ply petticoat wool, in khaki colour or 
navy blue. 

Cast on 100 stitches on three needles—32, 32, 36— 
join them in a circle and knit in a rib of knit 2 
stitches and purl 2 stitches for 35 rounds = 5 inches. 

Knit and purl in the rib on the 3 needles in rows — 
not rounds—for 50 rows = 7 inches. This is to make 
a split for the face. Begin the first row with the 
second stitch of a plain knitted rib and end the row 
with the first stitch of the same rib and slip the first 
stitch of every row. 

Knit in the rib for 12 rounds = l 1 /* inches. 

Next round, knit together every 19th and 20th stitches. 


2nd round, 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

18th 

4 4 

19th 

4 4 

3rd 

(i 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

17th 

4 4 

18th 

4 4 

4th 

< ( 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

16th 

4 4 

17th 

4 4 

5th 

(. < 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

15th 

4 4 

16th 

4 4 

6th 

i ( 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

14th 

4 4 

15th 

4 4 

7th 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

13th 

4 4 

14th 

4 4 

8th 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

12th 

4 4 

13 th 

4 4 

9th 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

11th 

4 4 

12th 

4 4 

10th 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

10th 

4 4 

11th 

4 4 

11th 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

9th 

4 4 

10th 

4 4 

12th 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

4 4 

8th 

4 4 

9th 

4 4 


[ 20 ] 



SIMPLE HELMET 






f 

KNITTING AND SEWING 

13th round, knit together every 7tli and 8th stitches. 
14th “ “ “ “ * 6th “ 7th “ 

15th “ “ “ “ 5th “ 6th “ 

You will have 25 stitches left on the needles. 
Break off the wool, run it twice round through all 
the stitches, pull them up and fasten off securely on 
the wrong side. 

The helmet over all measures 15 inches. 


[ 22 ] 


BALACLAVA HELMET 
(with cape pieces) 


4 bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
8. 6 ounces of 4-ply petticoat wool, or of 4-ply fleecy 
wool, in khaki colour or navy blue. 

Cast on 30 stitches. 

Knit 1 plain row. 

For the 2nd row, slip 1 with a knitting slip, in¬ 
crease 1 stitch in the 2nd stitch by knitting in the 
front and in the back of loop before slipping it oft 
the left-hand needle, knit plain to the end of the 
row. 

Repeat this row till you have 50 stitches on one 
needle. 

Knit plain, slipping the first stitch of every row 
till the work measures 5 inches from the last in¬ 
creasing row—25 double rows — 1 % inches over-all. 

With the other two needles and another ball of 
wool make a second cape piece like this one. Place 
them together, dividing the stitches on to 3 needles 
—32, 32, 36—and knit in a rib of knit 2 stitches and 
purl 2 stitches for 6 inches—45 rounds. 

Begin with the cape piece where the ribbing starts 
with 2 knitted stitches and knit in the rib for 14 
stitches, cast off 22 stitches loosely. 

Now knit forward and backward in the rib for 2 
inches—15 rows—slipping the first stitch of every 
row. When you come to the face opening cast on 22 

[23] 



KNITTING AND SEWING 


stitches, join up the round and knit in the rib for 4 
inches—32 rounds. 

To finish the top— 

Knit every 19th and 20th stitches together, knit 1 
plain round. Knit every 18th and 19th stitches to¬ 
gether. Knit 1 plain round. Knit every 17th and 
18th stitches together. Knit every 16th and 17th 
stitches together, and continue in this manner till 
onlv 25 stitches remain. 

Break oft the wool, run it twice round through all 
the stitches, pull it up, and finish oft securely. 

Press the plain parts of the work. 

This helmet can he knitted without the cape pieces, 
in which case cast on 100 stitches, on 3 needles, join 
them in a circle, rib in knit 2 stitches and purl 2 
stitches for 6 Inches, etc. 

Turn the helmet inside out and pick up the neck 
and head part with a teazle brush to make it soft and 
fleecy. 

The Balaclava Helmet measurements are: 

Length over all. 22 inches. 

Without cape pieces. 14 H “ 

It looks very long when knitted, but takes up by 
stretching when on. 


[ 24 ] 





BALACLAVA HELMET 


[ 25 ] 













PEARY HELMET 


4 bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
9. 3y 2 ounces of 4-ply petticoat wool, 4-ply double 
knitting wool, or 3 balls of 6 thread Thibet Llama 
wool, in khaki colour or navy blue. 

Cast on 90 stitches on 3 needles, 30 on each needle, 
join them in a circle and knit in a rib of knit 3 
stitches and purl 3 stitches for 4 inches, or 32 rounds; 
take off 21 stitches on an extra needle, beginning 
the count with a rib of 3 knitted stitches. Knit for¬ 
ward and backward on the remaining 69 stitches, al¬ 
ways slipping the first stitch of every row till you 
have knitted 18 double rows = 3 inches. 

Slip 1 stitch, knit 15, knit the next 2 stitches to¬ 
gether and knit plain to the end of the row. Repeat 
this row till you have knitted 14 double rows in the 
narrowing and have 41 stitches left on one needle. 

Slip 1, knit 7, knit the next 2 stitches together and 
knit plain to the end of the row. Repeat this row 
till vou have knitted 10 double rows in the narrow- 
ing and have 21 stitches left on one needle. 

In the next row, slip 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, 
knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 
2, knit 2 together, and end knit 2. 

2nd row, slip 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 
2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 to¬ 
gether and end knit 2. 


[ 26 ] 



PEARY HELMET 


1271 









KNITTING AND SEWING 


3rd row, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 5, 
knit 2 together and end knit 2 together. 

4th row, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 1, 
knit 2 together and end knit 2 together. 

5th row, knit 2 together, knit 1 and end knit 2 to¬ 
gether. 

6th row, slip 1, knit 2. 

You will now have 3 stitches left on one needle, 
and have knitted 45 double rows, counting from the 
ribbing. On the same needle with the 3 stitches pick 
up 45 stitches, one stitch in each rib, this will bring 
you to the 21 stitches on the extra needle, knit these 
in the rib. Pick up 45 stitches on the other side of 
the helmet, which will bring you to the top again. 

You will now have 114 stitches in the round, divide 
them on 3 needles—36, 36, 42—and knit in a rib of 
knit 3 stitches and purl 3 stitches for 3% inches (or 
28 rounds). Be careful to knit the stitches so that 
the ribbing joins correctly with the 21 stitches that 
are already ribbed. Cast off and press the plain 
part of the helmet, turn it inside out and pick it up 
with a teazle brush till it is soft and fleecy. 

If wished this helmet can be made with openings 
for the ears, as on active service the officers and men 
are forbidden to cover their ears while on duty. 

With 3 stitches left on one needle pick up the first 
24 stitches for the round, 1 stitch in each double 
row of the plain knitting. You will now be within 
21 double rows of the 21 ribbed stitches on the extra 
needle. Cast on 9 stitches, miss 9 double rows of the 
plain knitting and pick up the last 12 stitches of the 

[28] 


PEARY HELMET 

needed 45, on the remaining 12 double rows of plain 
knitting. Rib the 21 stitches on the extra needle. 
Pick up 12 stitches in the first 12 rows of plain knit¬ 
ting on the other side of the helmet. Cast on 9 
stitches, miss 9 double rows of the plain knitting. 
Pick up 24 stitches in the remaining 24 double rows 
of plain knitting, which completes the round of 114 
stitches and brings you to the top of the helmet 
again. 

If small flaps are wanted to close these openings, 
pick up 13 stitches on the inside edge of the 9 skipped 
double rows. Pick up 1 stitch for each row and 2 
stitches on either side. Alternately knit and purl 
these 13 stitches for 10 rows. The plain side of the 
knitting must face out. On the 11th row, narrow 
the two first and the two last stitches, do the same on 
the 12th row and cast off on the 13th row. 


[ 29 ] 


SLEEPING IIELMET 


One-lialf yd. of eider down flannel, 30 inches 
wide, in tan, brown, grey, or dark blue. 

If you are making the Jaeger pyjamas (see page 



SLEEPING HELMET 

186), there will he enough left from the pair of 
blankets to cut the helmet. 

Make the helmet according to the illustrated dia¬ 
gram and sew it strongly. 


[ 30 ] 




















SLEEPING HELMET 


[ 31 ] 




SKULL CAP 


4 bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
8. 2 ounces of 4-ply double knitting wool, khaki 

colour or navy blue. 

Cast on 100 stitches on 3 needles—32, 32, 36. Join 
them in a circle and work in a rib of knit 2 stitches 
and purl 2 stitches for 4 inches. 



SKULL CAP 

Knit plain for 3 inches, or 4 inches if the man has 
a deep head. 

Decrease and finish as for the Balaclava Helmet 
(see page 23). 

Press the plain part of the cap, turn it inside out 
and pick up the surface of the plain part with a 
teazle brush till it is soft and fleecy. 

These caps are useful for sleeping in and to wear 
under an oilskin cap, or a steel helmet. 

[32] 







CAr AND MUFFLER COMBINED 


4 bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
8. 6 ounces of 4-ply double knitting wool, in khaki 
colour or navy blue. 

Cast on 100 stitches, on 3 needles—32, 32, 36—join 
them in a circle and knit plain for 245 rounds and 
the work measures 34 inches. 



_ 


Cast off and press the work. 

Gather up the ends, make a pompon by winding 
the wool 100 times around a piece of cardboard 2 
inches wide, tie the wound wool tightly on one side, 

[33] 









KNITTING AND SEWING 

cut through the other side, gather up the pompon 
and clip the top evenly. Sew a pompon on each end 
of the muffler. 

For a cap, fold one end inside the other. 















MUFFLER 

BASKET STITCH 

2, 12 inch long hone knitting needles, with tips at 
one end, size 7. 1-lb. 4-ply double knitting wool in 

khaki colour or navy blue. 

Cast on 69 stitches, or a number of stitches divi¬ 
sible by 12, plus 9. Slip the first stitch of every 
row with a knitting or purling slip according to the 
stitch following. 

1st row. Slip 1 stitch, knit 8, purl 3, * knit 9, purl 3 
and repeat from * to the end of the row, ending 
knit 9 stitches. 

2nd row. Slip 1 stitch, purl 8, knit 3, * purl 9, knit 3 
and repeat from * to the end of the row, ending 
purl 9 stitches. * 

3rd row. Slip 1 stitch, knit 8, purl 3, * knit 9, purl 3 
and repeat from * to the end of the row, ending 
knit 9 stitches. 

4th row. Slip 1 stitch, purl 2, knit 3, * purl 9, knit 3 4 
and repeat from * to the end of the row, ending 
purl 3 stitches. 

5th row. Slip 1 stitch, knit 2, purl 3, * knit 9, purl 3 
and repeat from # to the end of the row, ending 
knit 3 stitches. 

6th row. Same as the 4th row. 

Repeat these 6 rows for all the work. 

Make the muffler 2% yards long. Cast off and fin¬ 
ish the ends with either 1 row of plain crochet and 

[35] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


a small flat scallop, or with a 2%-inch long fringe, 
using 6 strands of wool to a knot and spacing the 
knots one to every y 2 inch of knitting, then trim the 
fringe evenly. 



MUFFLER IN BASKET STITCH 


Do not press knitting done in fancy stitches. 

This muffler will measure 12 inches in width. If 
wanted wider cast on 81 stitches. The pattern in¬ 
creases or decreases by 12 stitches. 

[36] 





MUFFLER 


PLAIN STITCH 

Needles and wool as above. Cast on 60 stitches. 
Slip the 1st stitch of every row with a knitting slip 
and knit plain forward and backward till your muf¬ 
fler is the desired length. Cast off and finish as 
above. Press the work. 

This muffler will measure 12 inches in width. Plain 
knitting works out a little wider than fancy stitches. 



[ 37 ] 


FIVE FANCY STITCHES FOR MUFFLERS 
SINGLE BRIOCHE STITCH 

Needles and wool as above. 

Cast on 69 stitches, or a number of stitches divi¬ 
sible by 3 and * with the wool in front slip the 1st 
stitch with a purling slip. Knit the next 2 stitches 



SINGLE BRIOCHE STITCH 


together. Repeat from * to the end of the row and 
repeat this row for all the work. 

Cast off and finish as above. 

This muffler will measure 12 inches in width. 

[38] 







FIVE FANCY 


STITCHES 


FOR MUFFLERS 


DOUBLE BRIOCHE STITCH 
Needles and wool as above. 

Cast on 68 stitches. “ With the wool in front 
slip 1 stitch (with a purling slip), knit 1 stitch, knit 



DOUBLE BRIOCHE STITCH 

the next 2 stitches together and repeat from * to the 
end of the row. 

Repeat this row for all the work. 

This muffler will measure 12 inches in width. The 
pattern increases or decreases by 4 stitches. 

CARDIGAN STITCH, OR 1 & 1 RIB 

Needles and wool as above. 

Cast on 96 stitches. Slip the 1st stitch of every 
row with a knitting slip. 

[39] 







KNITTING AND SEWING 


1st row. Slip 1 stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 and repeat 
from * to the end of the row. 



CARDIGAN STITCH, 

OR 1 & 1 RIB 

Repeat this row for all the work. Cast off and 
finish as above. 

This muffler will measure 12 inches in width. 

DIAGONAL STITCH 

Needles and wool as above. 

Cast on 84 stitches. 

1st row. Slip 1 stitch, knit 2, purl 3, * knit 3, purl 3, 
and repeat from * to the end of the row. 

2nd row. Slip 1 stitch, knit 1, purl 3, * knit 3, purl 3 
and repeat from * to the end of the row, ending 
purl 3, knit 1. 


[40] 




FIVE FANCY STITCHES FOR MUFFLERS 


3rd row. Slip 1 stitch, purl 1, knit 3, * purl 3, knit 3, 
and repeat from 11 to the end of the row, ending 
knit 3, purl 1. 

Continue in this manner purling or knitting 1 
stitch further on in every row, as the diagonal stripe 



DIAGONAL STITCH 

requires. When a row ends with either 3 purl or 3 
knitted stitches, begin another diagonal stripe on the 
next row. 

Cast off and finish as above. 

This muffler will measure 12 inches in width. 

TRIANGLE STITCH 

Needles and wool as above. 

Cast on 72 stitches. 

1st row. Slip 1 stitch, knit plain. 

[41] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


2nd row. Slip 1 stitch, purl 7, * knit 1, purl 8 and 
repeat from * to the end of the row, end knit 1. 

3rd row. Slip 1 stitch, purl 1, * knit 7, purl 2 and 
repeat from * to the end of the row, end knit 7. 

4th row. Slip 1 stitch, purl 5, * knit 3, purl 6 and 
repeat from * to the end of the row, end knit 3. 



TRIANGLE STITCH 

5th row. Slip 1 stitch, purl 3, * knit 5, purl 4 and 
repeat from * to the end of the row, end knit 5. 

6th row. Slip 1 stitch, purl 3, * knit 5, purl 4 and 
repeat from * to the end of the row, end knit 5. 

7th row. Slip 1 stitch, purl 5, * knit 3, purl 6 and 
repeat from * to the end of the row, end knit 3. 

8th row. Slip 1 stitch, purl 1, * knit 7, purl 2 and 
repeat from * to the end of the row 7 , end knit 7. 

9th row. Slip 1 stitch, purl 7, * knit 1, purl 8 and 
repeat from * to the end of the row, end knit 1. 

[42] 





FIVE FANCY STITCHES FOR MUFFLERS 


Repeat the last 8 rows for all the work. 

Cast off and finish as above. 

This muffler will measure 12 inches in width. The 
pattern increases or decreases by 9 stitches. 



[ 43 ] 


SCARF 

SOFT AND NARROW—TO WEAR INSIDE 
THE JACKET 


2 bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
8. 6 balls of 3 thread Thibet Llama wool, in khaki 
colour, navy blue, or natural shade. 

Cast on 72 stitches, and knit plain forward and 
backward till the scarf is the desired length. 2 yards 
is a good length. Leave the ends plain. 

This scarf will measure 10 inches in width. 

If preferred, you can begin the scarf by knitting 
6 rows in a rib of knit 2 stitches and purl 2 stitches 
and repeat these 6 rows at the end. 

If 6 thread Thibet Llama wool is used, cast on 52 
stitches. 6 balls will be required. This makes a 
thicker scarf. 



[441 



SCARF 





CHEST PROTECTOR 


3 bone knitting needles, with tips at one end, size 
9. 5 ounces of 4-ply fleecy wool, in white, grey, or 
natural colour. 2 flat, medium sized, pearl buttons. 
Cast on 104 stitches. 

Slip the 1st stitch of every row. 

1st row. * Slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, put the wool 
in front and repeat from * to the end of the row. 
2nd row. Slip 1 stitch, knit 2 together, * knit 1, knit 
2 together and repeat from * to the end of the 
row. 

3rd and 4th rows. Knit plain. 

Then knit in a rib of knit 1 stitch and purl 1 stitch 
for 11 inches. 

This brings the work to the division for the neck 
and shoulders. 

Knit 40 stitches in the rib, cast off the next 24 
stitches, take a third needle and knit the remaining 
40 stitches in the rib. 

Rib one row. 

On the next row knit the first 2 stitches together 
and rib to the end of the row. 

Repeat these last two rows twice and knit in the 
rib for 4 inches. 

Then increase 1 stitch at the side nearest the neck 
on every 2nd row, for 6 rows. 

Break off the wool and leave this shoulder. 

[46] 


CHEST TROTECTOR 


On the other needle and shoulder knit 2 stitches 
together, rib to the end of the row. 

Rib one row. 

Repeat these last two rows twice. 

Knit in the rib for 4 inches. 



CHEST PROTECTOR 

Increase 1 stitch at the side nearest the neck in 
every 2nd row for 6 rows. 

Rib 40 stitches. Cast on 24 stitches. Rib the 40 
stitches on the other shoulder and knit in the rib for 
11 inches. 

Knit 2 rows plain. 

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows of the work and cast 
off. 







KNITTING AND SEWING 

Make a strap and button-hole as follows: 

Knit up 12 stitches at the lower inside edge of the 
back. 

Knit plain for 3 inches. 

Knit 4, cast off 4, knit 4, turn; knit 4, cast on 4, 
knit 4. 

Knit plain for 4 double rows and cast off. 

Work around the button-hole with wool. Make 
another strap on the other side of the back, and sew 
the buttons on the sides of the front to correspond 
with the button-holes. 

Length over-all—from shoulder. . 1314 inches. 
Width ... 12 “ 


[ 48 ] 



SINGLET 


2 long bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, 
size 8. 11 ounces of 4-ply fleecy, or 4-ply double 

knitting wool, in white or natural colour. 

Cast on 80 stitches. 

1st row. * Slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, put the wool in 
front and repeat from * to the end of the row. 
2nd row. Slip 1 stitch, knit 2 together, * knit 1, knit 
2 together and repeat from * to the end of the 
row. 

Now knit plain, slipping the first stitch of every 
row with a purling slip, for 120 double rows and 
the work measures 24 inches. For smaller sizes 100 
rows = 20 inches; 110 rows = 22 inches. 

On the next row, which should be a forward row 
(a row with the work facing you), knit 28 stitches 
and slip them off on a piece of wool; cast off 24 
stitches as follows: Knit 1 stitch and replace it on 
the left hand needle, knit 2 stitches together, * put 
the stitch that is on the right hand needle on the left 
hand needle and knit 2 stitches together. Repeat 
from *. This gives a casting-off with a firm, elastic 
edge, that has no right or wrong side. 

Knit 28 stitches, knit plain on these 28 stitches 
for 16 double rows = 3^4 inches. Leave this piece 
by slipping off the stitches. 

Pick up the other 28 slipped off stitches and knit 
this shoulder till it is as long as the other one. 

[49] 




KNITTING AND SEWING 


On the last knitting row, cast on 24 stitches, pick 
up and knit the 28 slipped off stitches of the first 
shoulder. 

Now knit these 80 stitches till the plain part of 
the hack is as long as the plain part of the front; 
repeat the 1st and 2nd rows, cast off and sew up the 
sides from the bottom edges, by overhanding them 
together on the wrong side with wool, leaving enough 
at the top for a very roomy arm-hole, 8 inches each 
side. Press the Singlet. 

The casting on and off should be done very loosely. 
The Singlet is to be pulled on over the head. 

It is for a 34 to 38 inch chest. 

This makes a good chest protector by knitting 
60 double rows in the length = 12 inches, before 
casting off for the neck. 


[ 50 ] 


SINGLET 




















































































PLAIN ARMLET 


4 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
11. 4 bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, 
size 8. 

5 ounces of 4-ply petticoat, or 4-ply fleecy wool, in 
natural colour, white, or grey. 

Cast on 62 stitches on three, size 11, needles—20, 
20, 22—join them in a circle. Knit in a rib of knit 
1 stitch and purl 1 stitch, for 45 rounds—5*4 inches. 

Knit plain for 45 rounds—5% inches. 

Change to the size 8 needles, and knit plain for 
75 rounds—13 inches. 

Cast off very loosely, as follows: 

Knit 1 stitch * replace this last stitch on the left 
hand needle and knit 2 stitches together. Repeat 
from * to the end of the round. 

Press the work. 

The Armlet will measure 24 inches in length. 

It can be made longer or shorter to suit, in the 
last plain knitting. 


[ 52 ] 






PLAIN ARMLET 


[ 53 ] 










RIBBED ARMLET 




4 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
11, and 4 bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, 
size 8. 

G ounces of 4-ply petticoat wool, or 4-ply fleecy 
wool, in natural colour, white or grey. 

Cast on 64 stitches on three, size 11, needles—20, 
20, 24—join them in a circle. Knit in a rib of knit 
2 stitches and purl 2 stitches, for 40 rounds—4 
inches. 

Change the rib to knit 6 stitches and purl 2 
stitches, and knit for 50 rounds— 5y 2 inches. 

Change to the No. 8 needles and knit in the rib 
for 95 rounds—14^4 inches. 

Cast off very loosely, as for the plain Armlet, and 
press the work. 

The Armlet measures 24 inches in length over all. 


[ 54 ] 





RIBBED ARMLET 


[ 55 ] 








GLOVES 


4 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
13. 3 ounces of 3-ply wheeling in khaki colour or 
navy blue; or if a softer glove is wanted, 3-ounces 
of 4-ply double knitting wool. 

Cast on 60 stitches on 3 needles, 20 stitches on 
each needle. Join them in a circle and knit in a rib 
of knit 2 stitches and purl 2 stitches for 38 or 40 
rounds—4 inches. 

1st round. Knit 2, purl 2 stitches together, and 
counting from here, knit every 11th and 12th 
stitches together to the end of the round, de¬ 
creasing 5 stitches. 

(You now begin the gusset for the thumb.) 

2nd round. Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, and knit 
plain to the end of the round. 

3rd round. Knit 1, purl 1, increase 1 by knitting 
up a stitch in the front loop of the lower stitch, 
i.e., the stitch of the preceding round. Knit 1 
(your stitch on the left needle), purl 1, and knit 
plain to the end of the round. 

4tli round. Knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1 and knit 
plain to the end of the round. 

5tli round. Knit 1, purl 1, increase 1 in the front 
loop of the lower stitch. Knit 2, increase 1 in 
the back loop of the stitch below the stitch you 
have just knitted off, i.e., in the stitch of the 

[56] 



GLOVES 


preceding round, purl 1 and knit plain to the 
end of the round. 

6tli & 7tli rounds. Knit 1, purl 1, knit 4, purl 1 and 
knit plain to the end of the rounds. 

8tli round. Knit 1, purl 1, increase 1, knit 4, increase 
1, purl 1 and knit plain to the end of the round. 
9th & 10th rounds. Knit 1, purl 1, knit 6, purl 1, and 
knit plain to the end of the rounds. 

Repeat these last 3 rounds, always knitting 2 more 
plain stitches on the V of the gusset after each in¬ 
creasing round, till you have 16 plain stitches in 
the gusset, between the 2 purled, or seam stitches, 
that outline the gusset. After the last increasing 
round knit 2 plain rounds, purling the 2 seam stitches 
of the gusset, as usual; take off the 16 plain gusset 
stitches and the 2 purled gusset stitches on a piece 
of yarn and leave them. 

Cast on 4 stitches, join up the round and knit 14 
plain rounds on 56 stitches. 

Now begin the lingers: for the right hand glove:— 
1st linger. Take the 4 cast on stitches, 12 stitches 
to the right of them, and at the left of the 4 
stitches cast on 2 stitches, 18 stitches in all; take 
off the rest of the stitches on a piece of yarn and 
leave them. Divide the 18 1st linger stitches on 
3 needles—6, 6, 6—join up the round and knit 
28 plain rounds. In the next round knit to¬ 
gether the first 2 and last 2 stitches on each 
needle. Knit 1 plain round. In the next round 
knit together the first 2 stitches on each needle, 

[57] 



KNITTING AND STAVING 

Break off the wool, thread it through a blunt 
darning needle, run it round through all the re¬ 
maining stitches, turn the finger inside out, pull 
up the wool and fasten off securely. 

2nd finger. With the ball of wool, pick up 3 stitches 
in the 2 cast on stitches of the 1st finger, take 
off 7 stitches from the yarn on the palm side, 



GLOVES 

cast on 2 stitches, take off 7 stitches from the 
yarn on the back of the hand. Divide the 
stitches on 3 needles—7, 6, 6—and join up the 
round. Knit 32 plain rounds and finish as for 
the 1st finger. 

3rd finger. With the ball of wool pick up 2 stitches 
in the 2 cast on stitches of the 2nd finger, take 

[58] 





GLOVES 


off 7 stitches from the yarn on the palm side, 
cast on 2 stitches, take off 7 stitches from the 
yarn on the hack of the hand. Divide the stitches 
on three needles—6, 6, 6—join up the round. 
Knit 28 plain rounds and finish as for the 1st 
finger. 

4th finger. With the ball of wool pick up 4 stitches 
in the 2 cast on stitches of the 3rd finger, take 
off the remaining 12 stitches on the yarn. Di¬ 
vide the stitches on three needles—fi, 5, 5—join 
up the round. Knit 22 plain rouuds and finish 
as for the 1st finger. 

For the thumb. With the ball of wool pick up 4 
stitches in the 4 cast on stitches for the gusset, 
take off the 18 stitches on the yarn and divide 
the stitches on three needles—8, 7, 7—join up 
the round and knit 22 plain rounds. On the 5th 
plain round decrease the first and last stitches 
of the 4 picked up gusset stitches, by knitting 
them in. The thumb is finished differently from 
the fingers, as follows:— 

1st round. Knit together the first and last 2 
stitches on each needle. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

3rd round. Knit together the first 2 stitches on 
each needle. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

5th round. Knit together the first 2 stitches on 
each needle, and end off like the fingers. 

Fasten in all the ends of wool securely. 

[59] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 

Press tlie glove, turn it inside out and pick it up 
with a teazle brush till it is soft and fleecy. 

The left hand glove is made like the right, only 
when you get to the 1st finger, take the 4 cast on 
stitches, 12 stitches to the left of them, cast on 2 
stitches, join up the round, etc. 

You can cast on 56 stitches for the glove, in which 
case do not decrease the 5 stitches on the 1st plain 
round. This makes the wrist part two ribs narrower. 

The glove measurements are:— 

Length of ribbing for the wrist 4 inches. 


“ “ palm . 4 i i 

“ “ middle finger . 3 “ 

Length over all. 11 inches. 


This glove will fit a size 8, 8*4, or 9 hand. 

Note. In all knitted things for the hand, if a 
longer wrist part is wanted, to wear over the coat 
sleeve, knit 10-20 more rounds on the wrist part. 

An ordinary wrist to wear under the sleeve should 
be 4 inches long, which is 38 to 40 rounds of ribbing 
with the wool and needles given in the directions. 


[ 60 ] 






FINGERLESS GLOVES 

OR HALF-MITTENS, FOR GUNNERS 

4 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
13. 3 ounces of 3-ply wheeling, or 4-ply double knit¬ 
ting wool, in khaki colour or navy blue. 

Proceed exactly as you do for a glove till you tie 
off the 18 thumb stitches. Now cast on 6 stitches, 
join up the round and knit 3 plain rounds. 



FINGERLESS GLOVES 


[ 61 ] 














KNITTING AND SEWING 


On the 4th plain round, when you reach the 6 cast 
on gusset stitches, knit 2 stitches together in the 
back loops of the stitches, knit 2 stitches, knit 2 
stitches together in the front loops of the stitches. 

Knit 10 plain rounds. 

Knit in a rib of knit 2 stitches and purl 2 stitches 
for 6 rounds and cast off. 

Pick u]3 the 18 thumb stitches and 4 stitches over 
the gusset. 

Knit 3 plain rounds. 

In the next round decrease the 2 outside stitches 
of the gusset as you did above. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Knit in the rib for 6 rounds and cast off. 

Press the work. 

The Fingerless Gloves measurements are:— 
Length of ribbing for the wrist 4 inches. 


“ (i palm . 4 “ 

Ribbing at top . y 2 inch. 

Length over all. 8 y 2 inches. 


r 


[ 62 ] 






MITTENS 


4 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
13. 3 ounces (takes 2 1 /j) of 4-ply double knitting 
wool, khaki colour or navy blue. 

Cast on 60 stitches on 3 needles—20, 20, 20— join 
them in a circle and work exactly as you do for a 
glove till you tie oft the 18 thumb stitches. 

Cast on 4 stitches, join up the round and knit 25 
plain rounds. Count the rounds as beginning in the 
centre of the 4 gusset stitches. This is to divide the 
mittens evenly for the narrowing. After the last 
and 25th plain round knit the 1st narrowing 
round:— 

Knit 1, knit 2 stitches together in the front loops 
of the stitches, knit 22. 

Knit 2 stitches together in the back loops of the 
stitches, knit 2. 

Knit 2 stitches together in the front loops of the 
stitches, knit 22. 

Knit 2 stitches together in the back loops of the 
stitches, knit 1. 

Knit 5 plain rounds. 

7th round. Knit 1, knit 2 stitches together, knit 20 
stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 20 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch. 

Knit 4 plain rounds. 

[ 63 ] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


12th round: Knit 1, knit 2 stitches together, knit 18 
stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 18 stitches. 



MITTENS 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch. 

Knit 3 plain rounds. 

16th round: Knit 1, knit 2 stitches together, knit 16 
stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches. 

[64] 












MITTENS 


Knit 2 stitclies together, knit 16 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

19th round: Knit 1, knit 2 stitches together, knit 14 
stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 14 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

21st round: Knit 1, knit 2 stitches together, knit 12 
stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 12 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

23rd round: Knit 1, knit 2 stitches together, knit 10 
stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 10 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch. 

24th round: Knit 1, knit 2 stitches together, knit 8 
stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 8 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch. 

25th round: Knit 1, knit 2 stitches together, knit 6 
stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 6 stitches. 

Knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch. 

[65] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 

Yon will have 20 stitches left on the needles, divide 
them evenly on 2 needles, 10 stitches on the front 
needle, and 10 stitches on the back needle. Break 
off the wool, thread it through a blunt darning needle 
and darn the stitches together in the weave (see page 
131). 

For the thumb. 

Pick up the 18 tied off stitches and pick up 4 
stitches in the 4 cast on stitches for the gusset. Knit 
as you do the thumb of a glove (see page 59), but 
omit the decreasing in the gusset stitches. 

Finish as you do the thumb of a glove. 

Press the work, turn the mitten inside out and pick 
it up with a teazle brush till it is soft and fleecy. 

The second mitten is made like the first one. 

The mitten measurements are: 

Length of ribbing for the wrist . . 4 inches 


“ “ palm and fingers. 7 u 

Length over all .11 inches. 


[ 66 ] 




RIFLE MITTENS 
FOR INFANTRY 

4 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
13. 3 ounces of 3-ply wheeling, or 4-ply double 

knitting wool, in khaki colour or navy blue. 

Proceed exactly as you do for gloves till you are 
ready to tie off the stitches for the fingers. 

Tie off 12 stitches for the first finger (to the left of 
the 4 cast on stitches if for the left hand mitten, to 
the right of them if for the right hand one), tie off 
the 4 cast on stitches as well. 

Continue knitting and at the end of the last needle 
cast on 2 stitches, join up the round of 42 stitches, 
divide them evenly upon 3 needles, 14 on each needle, 
and knit plain for 15 rounds. 

In the next and first narrowing round, knit 19 
stitches, this will bring you to the outside edge of the 
hand. Knit 2 stitches together in the back loops of 
the stitches, knit 2 stitches together in the front loops 
of the stitches and knit plain to the end of the round. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Narrow again in the round, as above, and knit 1 
plain round. 

Repeat the narrowing round and the plain round 
till you have decreased 14 stitches. 

Now narrow 4 rounds in succession. You will have 
20 stitches left on the needles. Either finish off with 
the darning weave (see page 131), or break off the 

[ 67 ] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


wool, thread it through a blunt darning-needle, run 
it round through all the 20 stitches twice, pull up the 
wool and fasten it off securely. 

Pick up the 16 tied off stitches for the 1st finger 
and pick up 4 stitches in the 2 cast on stitches, join 


RIFLE MITTENS 

up the round and knit in a rib of knit 2 stitches and 
purl 2 stitches for 6 rounds. Cast off. 

Pick up the 18 tied off thumb stitches and pick-up 
4 stitches in the 4 cast on gusset stitches, join up the 
round, and knit 1 plain round, knitting in the 2 out¬ 
side stitches of the gusset when you come to them. 

[ 68 ] 









RIFLE MITTENS 


Knit in a rib of knit 2 stitches and port 2 stitches, 
for 6 rounds and cast off. 

Fasten in all the ends securely and press the mit¬ 
ten, then pick up the inside with a teazle brush until 
it is soft and fleecy. 

The Rifle Mitten measurements are: 

Ribbing for the wrist. 4 inches. 

Palm and fingers. 7 u 

Length over all .11 inches. 


[ 69 ] 





STEERING MITTENS 


4 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
11. 4 ounces of 4-ply wheeling in dark grey. 

Cast on 48 stitches on 3 needles, 16 stitches on each 
needle, join them in a circle and knit in a rib of knit 
2 stitches and purl 2 stitches, for 4 inches, or 32 
rounds. 

You now begin the gusset for the thumb. 

1st, 2nd and 3rd rounds. Knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, 



STEERING MITTENS 


[ 70 ] 







STEERING MITTENS 


purl 1, and knit plain to tlie end of the round. Then 
knit as for gloves (see page 56), until you tie off the 
18 stitches for the thumb. 

Cast on 4 stitches, join up the round and knit 22 
plain rounds; from here count the rounds as begin¬ 
ning with the last 2 cast on gusset stitches, this is 
to divide the mitten evenly for the narrowing. 

Decrease as for Mitten (see page 63), in the fol¬ 
lowing proportions: 

Decrease 1 round, as follows: Knit 1, knit 2 
stitches together in the front loops of the stitches, 
knit 18, knit 2 stitches together in the back loops of 
the stitches, knit 2, knit 2 stitches together in the 
front loops of the stitches, knit 18, knit 2 stitches to¬ 
gether in the back loops of the stitches and end knit 1. 

Knit 4 plain rounds. 

Decrease 1 round. 

Knit 3 plain rounds. 

Decrease 1 round. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease 1 round. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease 1 round. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease 2 rounds in succession. You will have 20 
stitches left on the needles. 

Knit 1 plain round and darn up in the weave (see 
page 131). 

For the thumb. Pick up the 18 tied off stitches 
and 4 stitches in the 4 cast on gusset stitches. 

[71] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


In the next round decrease 2 stitches by knitting in 
your 2 purled gusset stitches. 

Knit 3 plain rounds, then decrease the 2 outside 
stitches of the 4 picked up stitches over the gusset. 

Knit 16 plain rounds. 

On the next round knit together the first 2 stitches 
on each needle. 

On the next round knit together the last 2 stitches 
on each needle. 

Knit 1 plain round, and in the next round knit to¬ 
gether the first 2 stitches on each needle. 

End off as for the thumb of a glove (see page 59). 

Press the mitten. Turn it inside out and pick up 
the inside with a teazle brush till it is soft and fleecy. 

The plain part of the mitten measures 8 inches. 

The mitten over all.12 “ 



HEAVY STEERING MITTENS 


A heavier mitten can be made by using 3-ply 
Fisherman’s yarn, as follows: 

4 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
11. 6 ounces of 3-ply Fisherman’s yarn, in natural, 
or any dark colour—khaki or blue. 

Cast on 40 stitches on 3 needles—12, 14, 14—join 
them in a circle and knit in a rib of knit 1 stitch 
and purl 1 stitch for 24 rounds = 4 inches. 

Now begin the gusset for the thumb: 

1st round. Knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch, increase 1, 
knit 1, purl 1 and knit plain to the end of the 
round. 

2nd round. Knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch, knit 2, purl 1, 
and knit plain to the end of the round. 

3rd round. Knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch, increase 1, 
knit 2, purl 1 and knit plain to the end of the 
round. 

4th round. Knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch, knit 3, in¬ 
crease 1, purl 1 and knit plain to the end of the 
round. 

5th round. Knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch, knit 4, purl 
1 and knit plain to the end of the rounds 
Repeat these last 3 rounds till you have 14 plain 
stitches between the 2 purled gusset stitches and 
knit 3 plain rounds, purling the 2 gusset stitches as 
usual. 


[ 73 ] 



KNITTING AND SEWING 


Tie off the 2 purled gusset stitches and the 14 plain 
stitches for the thumb. 

Cast on 3 stitches, join up the round and knit 24 
plain rounds. 



HEAVY STEERING MITTENS 

Decrease as follows: 

Counting the round as beginning with the 2nd cast 
on stitch—knit 1 stitch, knit 2 stitches together in the 
front loops of the stitches, knit 14, knit 2 stitches to¬ 
gether in the back loops of the stitches, knit 4, knit 
2 stitches together in the front loops of the stitches, 













HEAVY STEERING MITTENS 


knit 14, knit 2 stitches together in the back loops of 
the stitches and end knit 1. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease as above for round, knitting 12 plain 
stitches between the decreasings on each side. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease for 1 round, knitting 10 plain stitches be¬ 
tween the decreasings on each side. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease for 1 round, knitting 8 plain stitches be¬ 
tween the decreasings on each side. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease for 2 rounds in succession, knitting 6 
plain stitches between the decreasings on each side, 
and then 4 plain stitches between the decreasings on 
each side. 

You will have 16 stitches left on the needles. 

Knit 1 plain round, break off the yarn and darn the 
stitches up in the weave (see page 131). 

For the thumb. Pick up the 16 tied off stitches 
and pick up 3 stitches in the 3 cast on stitches of the 
gusset. Divide them on 3 needles—7, 6, 6—and knit 
1 plain round. 

In the next plain round decrease the two purled 
stitches that outline the thumb gusset. 

Knit 12 plain rounds. 

Knit together the first 2 stitches on each needle. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Knit together the last 2 stitches on each needle. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Knit together the first 2 stitches on eacli needle, 

[75] 



KNITTING AND STAVING 


break off the yarn, rnn it through the remaining 8 
stitches, turn the thumb inside out, pull up the yarn 
and finish it off securely. 

Press the work. 

The mitten measures over all 12 inches. 

The second mitten is made like the first. 


[ 76 ] 


THUMBLESS HALF MITTENS 

OX TWO NEEDLES 

2 short steel knitting needles, size 14. 3 ounces 

of 4-ply double knitting wool, khaki colour or navy 
blue. 

Cast on 56 stitches. 



THUMBLESS HALF-MITTENS 

Work forward and backward in a rib of knit 2 
stitches and purl 2 stitches for 38 rows—4 inches. 

Alternately knit and purl the rows for 35 rows— 
3 l /o inches. 


[ 77 ] 












KNITTING AND SEWING 


Knit 10 rows in the rib. 

Cast off and sew np on the wrong side for 2 inches, 
measuring from the top. Leave 2 inches for the 
thumb space, sew up the rest. 

Fasten off securely and press the work. 

The second mitten is made exactly like the first. 

If a finer mitten is wanted use 4-ply fingering wool 
and size 13 knitting needles. 

These mittens leave the thumb and fingers free 
and protect the palm. 

The Thumbless Half-mittens* ’ measurements 
are: 

Length of ribbing for the wrist 4 inches. 


“ “ palm . 3 y 2 u 

Ribbing at the top . 1 inch. 

Length over all. 8 y 2 inches. 






DODDIES 

(mittens with an open thumb and the top 

PART MADE SO THAT THE FINGERS CAN BE 
QUICKLY RELEASED WITHOUT TAKING THE 
DODDIE OFF) 

4 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
13. 3 ounce of 3-ply wheeling, or 4-ply double knit¬ 
ting wool, in khaki colour or navy blue. 

Cast on 60 stitches, on 3 needles, 20 stitches on 
each needle, join them in a circle and knit in a rib of 
knit 2 stitches and purl 2 stitches, for 38 rounds, 
or 4 inches. 

1st round. Knit 2 stitches, purl 1, increase 2 in 
the loops of the stitches of the preceding round, 
purl 1, knit 2, knit 2 purled stitches together, 
knit 2, knit 2 purled stitches together, knit 
2, knit 2 purled stitches together, knit 6, knit 2 
purled stitches together, knit 2, knit 2 purled 
stitches together, knit 2, knit 2 purled stitches to¬ 
gether, rib the remaining 28 stitches. 

2nd round. Knit 2 stitches, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, 
knit the next 22 palm stitches plain, rib the next 
28 stitches. 

3rd round. Knit 2 stitches, purl 1, increase 1 as 
you do for the thumb gusset in gloves (see page 
56), knit 2, increase 1, purl 1, knit the next 22 
palm stitches plain, rib the next 28 stitches. 

[79] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 

4th round. Knit 2 stitches, purl 1, knit 4, purl 1, 
knit 22, rib 28 stitches. 

5th round. Knit 2 stitches, purl 1, increase 1, knit 
4, increase 1, purl 1, knit 22, rib 28 stitches. 



DODDIES 

6tli round. Knit 2 stitches, purl 1, knit 6, purl 1, 
knit 22, rib 28 stitches. 

7tli round. The same as the 6tli round. 

Repeat the last 3 rounds, increasing 2 stitches 
ever> r 3rd round till you have 16 plain stitches in the 
gusset. 

Knit 5 rounds, purling the seam stitches of the 

[80] 








DODDIES 

gusset and ribbing the 28 stitches of the back of the 
hand. 

Take the 16 plain gusset stitches and the 2 purled 
seam stitches of the gusset off on a piece of yarn, and 
leave them. 

Cast on 4 stitches, join up the round and knit 10 
rounds, knitting the 22 palm stitches plain, and rib¬ 
bing the other 34 stitches. 

Now knit in the rib all around for 8 rounds. 

When you reach the stitches that were the 22 palm 
stitches cast them off, rib on till you come to them 
again, cast on 22 stitches, join up the round and knit 
in the rib for 8 rounds. Knit the 22 palm stitches 
plain and rib the other 34 stitches for 10 rounds. 

Narrow and finish the doddie, as follows— 

1st round. Knit the first two plain stitches together 
in the front loops of the stitches. Knit plain 
till you reach the last two plain stitches, knit 
them together in the back loops of the stitches. 
Knit together the first two purled stitches of the 
ribbing, in the front loops of the stitches, rib 
till you come to the last two purled stitches of 
the ribbing, knit these together in the back loops 
of the stitches. 

2nd round. Knit the plain stitches and rib the rest. 

Repeat the last two rounds twice. 

Now narrow in every round for 7 times till you 
have 16 stitches left. 

Remember that as you are decreasing part of the 
doddie in the ribbing in this part you must keep the 
plain stitches plain and the purled stitches purled 

[81] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 

so as to make the ribs come into the narrowing cor¬ 
rectly. 

Darn the 16 stitches together in the weave, taking 
up 2 stitches from the ribbed part to 1 stitch of the 
plain, and fasten off the wool. 

The Thumb. With another ball of wool pick up 4 
stitches in the 4 cast on stitches of the gusset, take 
the 18 stitches on the piece of yarn and divide these 
22 stitches on 3 needles—7, 7, 8—knit 6 plain rounds. 
In the last plain round decrease the 2 outside stitches 
of the 4 cast on gusset stitches. Knit in a rib of knit 
2, and purl 2 for 6 rounds and cast off. 

Turn the doddie inside out and pick up 26 stitches 
on the inside of the top edge of the opening, that 
is pick up 22 stitches to correspond with the 22 cast 
on stitches and 2 stitches each side of them, al¬ 
ternately knit and purl these 26 stitches for 11 rows, 
narrow 1 stitch at each end in the 12tli and 13th 
rows, and cast off on the 14th row. When the doddie 
is on, the plain part of the knitting must face out, 
this makes a little flap to tuck under the open slit. 

Fasten in all the ends securely. Press the doddie, 
turn it inside out and pick it up with a teazle brush 
till it is soft and fleecy. 

The left hand doddie is made like the first one, 
only after finishing the 38 rounds of ribbing, merely 
reverse the directions for the first 7 rounds of the 
right hand doddie—that is, knit the directions for 
each round as though reading them backward—this 
will bring the thumb gusset on the other side of the 
palm. 


[ 82 ] 


DODDIES 


For convenience in knitting this part, put the gus¬ 
set stitches on one needle, the plain or palm stitches 
on another needle and all the ribbed stitches on the 
third needle. 

The doddie measurements are: 

Length of ribbing for the wrist.. 4 inches. 

“ “ palm to the opening .. 4 

‘ ‘ “ top to the opening .... 3 “ 

“ over-all (the opening 

stretches 1-inch).12 “ 




[ 83 ] 



HAND PROTECTORS 

(WRISTLETS WITH A BACK PORTION-THESE ALLOW 

THE GREATEST FREEDOM TO THE HAND WHILE 
GIVING IT THE MOST PROTECTION) 


4 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
13. 2 ounces of 4-ply double knitting wool, in khaki 
colour or navy blue. 

Cast on 60 stitches on 3 needles, 20 stitches on 
each needle, join them in a circle and knit in a rib 
of knit 2 stitches and purl 2 stitches for 40 rounds. 

Cast off 18 stitches, beginning with 2 purled 
stitches. Rib forward and backward for 38 rows, 
slipping the first stitch of every row. 

Cast off leaving a long thread. With a bone 
crochet hook and the end thread pick up a chain 
stitch on the inside of the top, two rows down from 
the edge, chain 8 stitches loosely, slip stitch the chain 
down counting 12 stitches across the protector, chain 
9, slip stitch down 12 stitches farther on, chain 8, 
slip stitch down 8 stitches farther on, chain 7, slip 
stitch down 8 stitches farther on, which will bring 
you to the other edge. Fasten off the wool securely. 

Both protectors are made alike. 

The Hand Protectors’ measurements are: 

Ribbing for wrist. 4 J 4 inches. 

“ ‘ 1 back of hand. \y± “ 


[ 84 ] 


Length over all 


8 V 2 inches. 









HAND PROTECTORS 


[ 85 ] 










WRISTLETS 


4 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
13. 2 ounces (takes l 1 /^) 4-ply double knitting wool, 
khaki colour or navy blue. 

Cast on 60 stitches, on 3 needles—20, 20, 20—join 
them in a circle and knit in a rib of knit 2 stitches 
and purl 2 stitches, for 5 inches. 

Cast off loosely. 

They can be made shorter or longer to suit. 



wristlets 


[ 86 ] 










KNITTED AND CROCHET IMPROVED GLOVES 
FOR MINE SWEEPERS AND DEEP-SEA 

MISSION 

“the north sea design” 

3 skeins of 3-ply wheeling. 1 ball of No. 5 
Macrame twine. 4 steel knitting needles, size 13. 1 
crochet hook, size 8. 

Cast on 56 stitches, 16 on the first needle, and 20 
on each of the other two. 

Knit firmly in rib of 2 plain, 2 purl, for 50 rounds. 
Now change to plain knitting, increasing in the 
1st round as follows:— 

* Knit 4 , increase 1 stitch (by raising a loop from 
the previous stitch) : repeat from * to end of round. 
There will now be an increase of 14 stitches, making 
70 altogether. 

Knit 9 rounds, then commence increasings for the 
thumb. 

61st round. Knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, plain to 
end of round. 

(Knit 2 rounds after each increased round.) 
64th round. Knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, plain to 
end of round. 

67th round. Knit 1, make 1, knit 5, make 1, plain to 
end of round. 

70th round. Knit 1, make 1, knit 7, make 1, plain 
to end of round. 


[ 87 ] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 

73rd round. Knit 1, make 1, knit 9, make 1, plain to 
end of round. 

76th round. Knit 1, make 1, knit 11, make 1, plain to 
end of round. 



mine-sweeper's gloves 


79tli round. Knit 1, make 1, knit 13, make 1, plain 
to end of round. 

82nd round. Knit 1, make 1, knit 15, make 1, plain 
to end of round. 

85th round. Knit 1, make 1, knit 17, make 1, plain 
to end of round. 

Slip these first 21 stitches on to an odd piece of 

[ 88 ] 











MINE SWEEPER’S GLOVES 

wool, and leave them for the thumb until presently. 

Continue the hand. Cast 6 stitches on to the last 
needle over the thumb for the gusset, and knit 3 
rounds. 

89th round. Knit until the 6 stitches that were cast 
on for gusset are reached, then decrease them 
as follows: slip 1, knit 1, take the slipped stitch 
over, knit 2, knit 2 together. 

90th and 91st rounds. Knit plain. 

92nd round. Knit until the remaining gusset stitches 
are reached, then slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped 
stitch over, knit 2 together. 

Knit 35 rounds plain, then decrease for top of glove. 
128th round. Knit every 6th and 7th stitch together. 
Knit 4 rounds plain. 

133rd round. Knit every 5th and 6th stitch together. 
Knit 3 rounds plain. 

137th round. Knit every 4th and 5th stitch to¬ 
gether. Knit 2 rounds plain. 

140th round. Knit every 3rd and 4th stitch together. 
Knit 2 rounds plain. 

143rd round. Knit every 2nd and 3rd stitch to¬ 
gether. Knit 2 rounds plain. 

146th round. Knit every 2nd and 3rd stitch to¬ 
gether. Knit 1 round plain. 

148th round. Knit every 2nd and 3rd stitch to¬ 
gether. 

Place the remaining stitches on 2 needles, an equal 
number on each. Hold the 2 needles together side by 
side, break off the wool and thread a darning-needle 

[89] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


to the end. Pass the needle through the 1st stitch 
on one of the needles, then through the 1st on the 
other; repeat alternate stitches until they are all 
on the darning-needle, draw through and darn back 
again, making secure. Return to the thumb. Pick 
up the 21 stitches and divide on 2 needles, pick up 6 
over the gusset on a 3rd needle. 

Knit 3 rounds, then decrease the stitches that were 
picked up over the gusset as follows:— 

Slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the 
knitted one, knit 2, knit 2 together. 

Knit 2 rounds, then decrease gusset again by slip¬ 
ping one, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2 
together. 

Knit 25 rounds, then * knit 2, knit 2 together; re¬ 
peat from * to end of round. 

Knit 2 rounds, then * knit 1, knit 2 together; re¬ 
peat from * to end of round. 

Knit 1 round, then knit 1, knit 2 together. Draw 
the remaining stitches together with a darning- 
needle to finish thumb. 

TO MAKE THE “TWINE PROTECTOR” 

(Note:—Always work into the back thread only.) 
Chain 46, and join in a ring with a single stitch. 
(This fits above the rib for cuff on glove.) 

1st round. Chain 3,1 treble into every stitch. (Com¬ 
mence every round with 3 chain, and always join 
with a single stitch.) 

2nd round. 21 treble, increase by working 3 stitches 

[90] 


MINE SWEEPER’S GLOVES 

into 1, treble to end of round. (The increase be¬ 
gins the thumb.) 

3rd round. 21 treble, 2 stitches into 1, 1 treble, 2 
stitches into 1, trebles to end. 

4th round. 22 trebles, increase, 1 treble, increase, 
trebles to end. 

5tli round. 15 trebles, then join the 16th treble to 
the 34th treble with the same stitch, leaving 17 
stitches for the thumb, 1 extra treble into the 
34th stitch, trebles to end. 

6th round. Work trebles all around, leaving thumb 
stitches. 

7th, 8th and 9th rounds. Repeat the 6th. 

10th round. Decrease, by working 2 trebles into 1, 
14 trebles, decrease, 14 trebles, decrease, and 
join with a single. 

11th round. * Decrease, 1 treble; repeat from * to 
end of round. 

12th round. 2 chain (to count as 1 double crochet), 
# decrease, 1 double crochet; repeat from * to 
end of row. 

(Note:—Owing to the difference in crocheting, it 
may be necessary to work an extra round in 
trebles. If so, repeat the Cth round for 5 times 
inclusive, instead of 4.) 

By the time the 12th round is crocheted, the top 

of glove should be reached. 

Place both sides together, and join by single stitch, 

missing the first and last. 

Return to the thumb, join twine. 

[91] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


1st round. 3 chain, 16 treble, and join. 

2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th rounds. Repeat the 1st round. 
6th round. 3 chain, * decrease, 1 treble; repeat from 
* to end of round, and join as usual. 

Place both sides together, and join as top of glove. 
This protector should fit easily over glove. 

Work all the ends of twine in, and sew them down 
securely. 

Place the protector over glove and sew it firmly 
at every round, commencing above the 2 plain, 2 
purl, at wrist. 

The Mine-Sweeper’s Glove measurements are: 

Length of ribbing for the wrist . . 4 inches. 

“ “ crocheted protector .. 8 “ 

‘ ‘ “ thumb (measured from 

the gusset inside) 3 “ 


Length over all.12 inches. 


[ 92 ] 




THE “MELLOR” GLOVE FOR MINE-SWEEPERS- 
FOR HAULING IN STEEL CABLES, ROPES, 

NETS, ETC. 


(the directions for the following glove are from 
THE MISSIONS TO SEAMEN, 11, BUCKINGHAM STREET, 
STRAND, LONDON, W. C. 2) 


THE CLOTH GLOVE 

Any firm, durable, woollen cloth is suitable, and 
any dark color. Cut two pieces of cloth like the pat¬ 
tern. Crochet, or sew, all round each piece sep¬ 
arately with blanket stitch, about % of an inch deep, 
using strong thread or waterproof twine. Then 
seam the two pieces together on the right side with 
knitting cotton, making the joinings at opening se¬ 
cure. Place the protector over the cloth and stitch 
the top and along each rib and bottom (catching as 
many strands as possible to prevent unravelling if a 
strand should be cut) with stout thread or knitting 
cotton. 

Do not let the protector draw in the cloth. 


CROCHETED TWINE PROTECTOR 

1 ball No. 4 Cotton Twine and a crochet hook, size 

8 . 

Work 46 chain and join into a ring with a single 
stitch, to make which pass the hook through a stitch, 

[93] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 

draw a loop through it and the loop already upon 

the needle. Work loosely to allow for shrinking 

when wet, 

1st round. 3 chain to start. Finish the round with 
treble stitch. After the 1st round, always work 
into the back strand only of each stitch in the 
preceding round. Commence every round with 
3 chain, and always join the round by working 1 
single stitch into the last of the 3 chain. 

2nd and 3rd round. 3 chain to start, and finish the 
rounds with treble stitch. 

4th round. 3 chain, 21 treble, increase by working 3 
into 1, finish the round. (The increase begins 
the thumb.) 

5th round. 3 chain, 21 treble, 2 into 1, 1 treble, 2 into 
1, and finish. 

6th round. 3 chain, 22 treble, 2 into 1, 1 treble, 2 into 
1, and finish. 

7th round. 3 chain, 15 treble, then join 16tli treble 
to 34th treble, with same stitch, leaving 17 tre¬ 
bles for the thumb. 1 more treble into 34th 
stitch, and finish round. 

8th round. 3 chain, treble all round, leaving thumb 
stitches. 

9tli, 10th and lltli rounds. Same as 8tli. 

12th round. 3 chain, decrease, 14 treble, decrease, 14 
treble, decrease and join. 

13th round. 3 chain, * decrease, 1 treble, repeat 
from * to end of round and join. 

14th round. 2 chain (to count as 1 double crochet), 

L94] 


( ( 



mellor ’ ’ 



[ 95 ] 



















KNITTING AND SEWING 

* decrease, 1 double crochet, repeat from * to 
end of round and join. 

15tli round. Place both sides together, and join by 
single stitch, missing first stitch and last. 

For the thumb. Join the twine next to the palm. 
1st round. 3 chain, 16 treble and join. 

2nd round. 3 chain, 7 treble, decrease, 7 treble, and 
join. 

3rd round. 3 chain, * decrease, 1 treble, repeat from 

* to end of round. 

4th round. Place both sides together, and join by 
single stitch, missing first stitch and last. 

Work all ends in and out well on the wrong side 
to prevent them springing out. 

This protector should fit easily over the cloth 
glove. 

To finish the gloves :— 

2 1-inch patent buckles and 1 yd. of strong cotton 
binding tape, 1-inch wide. 

Sew the tape and buckles on as in the illustration. 


[ 96 ] 


PLAIN JERSEY 
(for 36-40-inch chest) 

1 % lbs. of 3-ply wheeling, an absolutely fast and 
reliable navy blue which will stand sea-water. 2 
bone knitting needles, size 7, and 4 bone knitting 
needles, size 8, pointed at both ends—a loose knitter 
should use needles a size finer, i.e., sizes 8 and 9. 

For a Jersey in a smoother finish use 4-ply double 
knitting wool. 

The Back :—Cast 96 stitches on one, size 7, needle. 
1st row. Knit 4, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * to the 
end of the row. 

(Always slip the first stitch throughout.) 

Repeat this row 20 times. 

22nd row. Knit plain. 

23rd row. Knit 2, purl to the last 2 stitches, knit 
these. 

Repeat these last 2 rows until the work measures 
30 inches from the commencement. 

Cast off 30 stitches at each end for the shoulders, 
and leave the 36 stitches at the centre on a size 8 
needle for the collar. 

The Front:— Work exactlv like the hack. 

The Sleeves: —Cast on 76 stitches. 

1st row. Knit 4, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * to 
the end of the row. 

Repeat this row 30 times. 

32nd row. Knit plain. 


[ 97 ] 



PLAIN JERSEY 


[ 98 ] 










PLAIN JERSEY 


33rd row. Knit 2, purl to the last 2 stitches, knit 
these. 

These last 2 rows are to be repeated throughout 
the sleeve. 

Increase one stitch at the beginning and end of 
the 7tli row, then increase every 6th row, until there 
are 7 increasings at each side of the work. Knit 
without increasing until the under-arm seam mea¬ 
sures 18 inches (without cuff). 

Cast off loosely. 

To Make LTp the wEesey. Sew up the shoulder 
and side seams, leaving 9 inches for the arm-hole. 
Sew up the seams of the sleeves, and fix the latter in 
the arm-holes, placing seam to seam. 

The Collar. With the size 8 needles, knit 1 and 
purl 1 into each of the stitches that were left at the 
neck. Knit (in rounds) in a rib of knit 2 stitches 
and purl 2 stitches for 6 inches. Cast off. 


L99J 


NAVAL JERSEY 
(for 36-40-inch chest) 

3 long bone knitting needles, with tips at one end, 
size 8. 1 lb. 6 ounces of 4-ply double knitting wool, 
in fast navy blue colour. 5 dark blue, or black, bone 
buttons. 

Cast on 100 stitches on one needle. 

After the first row slip the 1st stitch of every row; 
on the knitting rows, wool in front, slip 1 with a purl¬ 
ing slip, wool back and knit; on the purling rows, 
slip 1 with a purling slip, the wool is in front; this 
gives a chain stitch edge throughout for sewing up 
the seams. 

Knit forward and backward in a rib of knit 2 
stitches and purl 2 stitches for 22 rows = 3 inches. 

Next row, knit plain. 

2nd row, purl. 

Repeat these last 2 rows till the work measures 
18 inches from the ribbing. 

On the next purling row, purl 50 stitches, cast on 
10 stitches. Turn, and with the third needle knit 
back. Alternately purl and knit these 60 stitches for 
64 rows = 9 inches. 

On the last knitting row, cast off the first 10 
stitches, leaving 50 stitches on the needle. Leave 
this needle and return to the 50 stitches on the other 
needle, or left side of the Jersey; alternately purl 
and knit on these 50 stitches for 13 rows = 2 inches. 

[ 100 ] 



, JERSEY 


NAVAT 


[ 101 ] 















KNITTING AND SEWING 

On the 14th (knitting) row, knit to within the last 7 
stitches on the needle, cast off 4, knit 3. Turn. 

Purl 3, cast on 4 and purl to the end of the row. 

Continue knitting and purling the rows for 14 
rows — 2 inches, then on the next and 15th (knit¬ 
ting) row make another button-hole as above. 

Knit and purl for 14 rows. 

Make another button-hole. 

Knit and purl for 14 rows. 

Make another button-hole. 

You will now have made 4 button-holes all told and 
have knitted 63 rows. 

Knit 1 row. 

Purl 1 row. 

On the next row, knit 30, slip the remaining 20 
stitches off on a piece of yarn and leave this side. 

Return to the 50 stitches on the right side of the 
Jersey. 

Purl 30 stitches, slip off the next 20 stitches on a 
piece of yarn, cast on 40 stitches, and on the same 
needle purl the 30 stitches on the left side of the 
Jersey. 

You will have 100 stitches again on one needle. 
Alternately knit and purl these 100 stitches till you 
have done as many rows as there are in the plain 
part of the front half. 

Then knit in a rib of knit 2 stitches and purl 2 
stitches for 22 rows = 3 inches, and cast off. 

For the Collar Band, 2 Inches Deep. Take one 
needle and pick up the 20 slipped off stitches of the 
right side of the front and 1 stitch on the shoulder. 

[ 102 ] 



NAVAL JERSEY 


With a second needle pick up 1 stitch in each of the 
40 cast on stitches of the hack. With the third needle 
pick up 1 stitch on the shoulder and the 20 slipped 
off stitches of the left side. You will have 82 stitches 
on the needles. Knit in a rib of knit 1 stitch and purl 
1 stitch for 5 rows. 

Then, on the next forward row, rib to within the 
last 7 stitches of the left side, cast off 4, rib 3. Turn. 

Rib 3, cast on 4 and rib the rest of the row. 

Knit in the rib for 6 rows and cast off on the 13th 
forward row. 

Work the button-holes round with avooI like an 
ordinary button-hole. 

Sleeves. Cast on 48 stitches. 

Knit forward and backward in a rib of knit 2 
stitches and purl 2 stitches for 22 rows = 3 inches. 

Next row, knit plain. 

2nd row, purl. 

Repeat these last two rows for 20 inches, increas¬ 
ing 1 stitch at the beginning and the end of every 
4th row and cast off. 

Press the work. 

Sew down the 10 cast on stitches of the right side 
underneath the button-hole strip. 

Sew up the side seams of the Jersey by over-hand¬ 
ing them together on the wrong side with wool, plac¬ 
ing the stitches exactly opposite each other; leave 
10 inches each side at the top of an arm-hole. 

Sew up the sleeves in the same manner and sew 

them into the arm-holes. 

[103] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 
Sew on the buttons to correspond with the button¬ 


holes. 

Length of Jersey . 30 inches. 

“ “ Sleeve .23 


[ 104 ] 




COAT SWEATER 


2 long bone knitting needles, with tips at one end, 
size 8, and 4 each bone knitting needles, pointed at 
both ends, sizes 8 and 12. 2 lbs. 6 ounces of 4-ply 
double knitting wool, in khaki colour or navy blue. 
5 buttons to match. 

Front. Cast on 90 stitches on one size 8 needle, 
and knit in a rib of knit 1 stitch and purl 1 stitch 
for 20% inches, then cast off 3 stitches at the begin¬ 
ning of the row, and knit 2 stitches together at the 
end of the row. 

Repeat this row 3 times, with 1 row knitted in the 
rib after each. 

* Knit 2 stitches together at the beginning and 
end of 1 row. 

Knit in the rib without decreasing for 2 rows. 

Repeat from * till there are 42 stitches left on 
needle, after the fourth decreased row narrowing 
only at the neck. * Then at the neck edge knit to¬ 
gether the first 2 stitches of 1 row and at the arm¬ 
hole end of the row cast on 1 stitch. 

Knit in the rib for 2 rows and repeat from * till 
the length over all is 28 inches. Cast off. 

Make another piece like this. 

Back. Cast on 120 stitches and knit in the rib for 
20% inches. 

Still knitting in the rib cast off 3 stitches the be¬ 
ginning of each row for 3 rows at each side. 

[105] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 

Rib for 4i/ 2 inches without decreasing. Widen 1 
stitch at the beginning and end of every 3rd row for 
2 inches, and cast off. 

Sleeves. Cast on 64 stitches, on three size 12 
needles (for the cuff), join them in a round and 
knit in a rib of knit 1 stitch and purl 1 stitch for 4 y 2 
inches. 

Then change to the size 8 needles, increasing 1 
stitch at the beginning and end of every 5th round, 
and knitting 1 plain stitch for a seam stitch between 
the increasings until you have 96 stitches on the 
needles. 

Knit in the rib for 6 inches (without increasing), 
then increase at the beginning and end of every 
6th round and knitting the seam stitch plain, until 
there are 116 stitches on the needles. 

Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the round 
and repeat this 3 times, knitting in rows. 

Knit 2 stitches together at the beginning and end 
of each row until 26 stitches are left. 

Cast off. 

Boeder. Cast on 10 stitches on one size 12 needle. 

Knit plain for 3 y 2 inches = 21 double rows. 

Make a button-hole as follows: Knit 3, cast off 
4, knit 3. Turn. Knit 3, cast on 4, knit 3. Make 
4 button-holes like this, spacing them 3Vi> inches 
apart. 

Knit plain till the strip is long enough to go all 
around the fronts and neck of the coat sweater. 

Work around the button-holes with wool like an 
ordinary button-hole. 


[ 106 ] 


COAT SWEATER 


Pockets. Cast on 46 stitches on one size 8 needle. 
Knit in the rib for 4 inches. 

Change to the size 12 needles and knit plain, 
knitting together every 9tli and 10th stitch for 1 row. 

Knit plain for 12 double rows all told and cast off. 

To put the coat sweater together, sew up the un¬ 
der-arm and shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves and 
sew on the border, placing the button-holes on the 
left side. Sew on buttons to correspond with the 
button-holes and sew on the pockets, placing them 
4 inches up from the bottom and 3 y 2 inches in from 
the finished edge. 

Do not press llie coat sweater as it would flatten 
out the rib. 


[ 107 ] 


COAT SWEATER 

IN A LIGHTER WEIGHT 


2 long bone knitting needles, with tips at one end, 
size 11, and 4 bone knitting needles, pointed at botli 
ends, size 11. 1-lb. of 5-ply fingering. 7 buttons to 
match the wool. 

Left Half of the Front. Cast on 70 stitches 
on one size 11 needle. Knit in a rib of knit 1 stitch 
and purl 1 stitch for 20 rows = 2 inches. 

Knit in 1 row plain and 1 row purl till the work 
measures 19 inches over all. 

On the next purling row, purl the first 2 stitches 


together. 


2nd 
3rd 
4th 
5th 
6 th 
7th 
8th 
9th 
10th 
11th 
12th 
13 th 

14th 


row. 

4 4 
1 4 
4 4 

4 c 


4 i 


4 4 


4 4 


4 4 


4 4 


4 4 


4 4 


4 4 


Knit, cast off the first 3 stitches. 

Purl. 

Knit, cast off the first 3 stitches. 

Purl the first 2 stitches together. 

Knit, cast off the first 3 stitches. 

Purl. 

Knit, cast off the first 3 stitches. 

Purl the first 2 stitches together. 

Knit, cast off the first 3 stitches. 

Purl the last 2 stitches together. 

Knit the first 2 stitches together. 

Purl 2 stitches together at each end of 
the row. 

Knit the first 2 stitches together. 

[108] 



COAT SWEATER 


[ 109 ] 


















KNITTING AND STAVING 


Repeat the 11th and 12th rows, then continue 
alternately purling and knitting the rows, and purl 
the first 2 stitches together of every fourth (purl¬ 
ing) row until there are 39 stitches left. After that 
continue the decreasing and in the same rows in¬ 
crease 1 stitch at the armhole end, until the work 
measures 29 inches over all. Cast off. 

For making the second, or right piece, reverse the 
directions, that is, change knit to purl and purl to 
knit. 

For the Back. Cast on 100 stitches. Knit in a 
rib of knit 1 stitch and purl 1 stitch for 2 inches. 

Knit and purl the rows alternately for 19 inches. 

Knit or purl the first and last 2 stitches together 
for 6 rows. 

Knit and purl the rows for 4^2 inches. 

Cast on 1 stitch at the end of each row for 2 inches. 

Cast off. 

Length of back 29 inches. 

For the strip, which forms a selvedge finish, cast 
on 18 stitches and knit in a rib of knit 1 stitch and 
purl 1 stitch till you reach the first button-hole, 4 
inches up, then knit 6 stitches, cast off 6 stitches, 
knit 6 stitches. Turn. Knit 6, cast on 6, and knit 6. 
Repeat this every 4 inches till five button-holes are 
formed. Then continue the strip for 46 inches, or 
enough to go all round the neck and fronts of the 
sweater. 

Cast on 42 stitches for each pocket. 

Knit and purl the rows for 314 inches. 

Knit in a rib of knit 1 and purl 1 for 1 inch. In 

[ 110 ] 


COAT SWEATER 


the centre, make a button-hole of 6 stitches, as above, 
knit in the rib for 1 inch, then cast off. 

Sleeves. Cast on 90 stitches, on 3 needles, size 11, 
join them in a circle and knit in a rib of knit 1 
stitch and purl 1 stitch for 4 inches. 

Increase 2 stitches every 6th round, 1 at the be¬ 
ginning and 1 at the end of the round, 6 times. 

Knit plain for 8 inches. 

Increase 2 stitches every 6th round 6 times. 

Knit plain for 6 rounds. 

Cast off 20 stitches. Knit plain and cast off the 
last 20 stitches of the round. 

On 2 needles in every alternate row, knit together 
<he 2 first and 2 last stitches for 42 rows. 

Then cast off the remaining 32 stitches. 

Inside arm to measure 20 inches. 

Outside arm to measure 25 inches. 

Sew up the under-arm seams and the shoulder 
seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew on the pockets, 
selvedge edge and buttons, and press the work well. 
The button-holes must be worked around with wool 
like an ordinary button-hole. 


[ 111 ] 


KNITTED WAISTCOAT 
IN BLOCK STITCH. FRONTS ONLY 

2 long steel knitting needles, size 13. 10 balls of 6 
thread Thibet Llama wool in the natural colour. 5 
buttons. 

Cast on 75 stitches. 

1st row. Slip 1 stitch, knit 2 stitches, purl 3 
stitches, * knit 3 stitches, purl 3 stitches and re¬ 
peat from * to the end of the row. 

2nd row. Slip 1, purl 2, knit 3, * purl 3, knit 3 and 
repeat from * to the end of the row. 

3rd row. The same as the 1st row. 

4th row. The same as the 3rd row. 

5th row. The same as the 2nd row. 

6th row. The same as the 4th row. 

Repeat these 6 rows till the strip is 26 inches long. 
Cast off and make the other half like it. 

The knitted fronts must be cut to the correct size 
and shape and slashed for pockets, and the cut edges 
stitched to prevent ravelling. It is best to have a 
tailor do this, putting in a twilled flannel back, and 
binding the fronts and pockets with self-coloured 
cloth or silk braid. 

The back can be made warmer by lining it with 
chamois leather. 

Thibet Llama wool is very soft and thick and gives 
the work a velvety finish, but any heavy wool will 
do for the waistcoat fronts. 

[ 112 ] 


KNITTED WAISTCOAT 


Knitted sleeves can be made if wished. Follow the 
directions for Plain Jersey sleeves (see page 97). 
Cast on 72 stitches and knit the cuff in a rib of knit 
3 stitches and purl 3 stitches. 



[ 113 ] 











THREE FANCY STITCHES FOR 
WAISTCOATS 

(1) Cobble Stitch. 

Cast on an uneven number of stitches. 

1st row. Slip 1 stitch, * purl 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, 
purl 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch and repeat from * to 
the end of the row. 

Repeat this row for all the work. 

(2) Cross Stitch. 

Cast on an even number of stitches. 

1st row. * Knit 1 stitch, slip 1 stitch with a purling 
slip, but keeping the thread back, and repeat 
from * to the end of the row. 

2nd row. * Knit 1, purl 1, and repeat from * to the 
end of the row. 

Repeat these 2 rows for all the work. 

(3) Diamond Stitch. 

Cast on a number of stitches divisible by 4. 

1st row. Slip 1 stitch, knit 1, * put the wool in front 
of the needle and slip 1, knit 1, and repeat from 
* to the end of the row. 

2nd row. Slip 1 stitch, * knit the stitch under the 
crossed-over stitch and slip the crossed-over 
stitch on to the right hand needle without knit- 

[114] 


THREE WAISTCOAT STITCHES 


ting it, knit 1. Repeat from * to the end of the 
row. 

3rd row. Slip 1 stitch, * put the wool in front of the 
needle and slip 1, knit the next stitch and the 
crossed-over stitch together. Repeat from * to 
the end of the row and knit 1. 



COBBLE STITCH 

4th row. Same as the 2nd row, only, begin slip 1, 
knit 1, then knit the stitch under the crossed- 
over stitch and slip the crossed-over stitch on 
to the right-hand needle without knitting it. 
Knit 1, etc. 

5th row. Slip 1. * Knit the next stitch and the 

slipped stitch (or crossed-over stitch) together, 
wool in front and slip 1. Repeat from * to the 
end of the row. 

Repeat 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th rows for all the work. 

[115] 














DIAMOND STITCH 



[ 116 ] 











BODY BELT 
(shaped) 

2 bone knitting needles, with tips at one end, size 
8. 4 ounces of 4-ply fleecy wool, in the natural un¬ 
dyed shade. 

Cast on 40 stitches. 

Slip the first stitch of every row with a knitting 
slip and knit plain forward and backward for 30 
double rows. 

61st row. Slip 1, knit 9, throw the wool over the top 
of the needle and knit plain to the end of the 
row. 

62nd row. Slip 1 and knit plain to the end of the 
row, knitting off the tlirown-over wool as a 
stitch. 

Repeat these last two rows till you have 55 stitches 
on one needle. 

Knit 30 plain double rows. 

151st row. Slip 1, knit 9, knit the 11th and 12th 
stitches together, knit plain to the end of the 
row. 

152nd row. Slip 1 and knit plain to the end of the 
row. 

Repeat these last two rows till you have 40 stitches 
on one needle. 

Knit plain for 30 double rows. 

Cast off and sew up the edges by overhanding 
them together with wool. Press the work. 

[117] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


This makes a medium sized belt, shaped down over 
the abdomen. It will stretch round a 32-34 inch 
waist. If wanted a larger size, cast on 42 stitches, 



BODY BELT (SHAPED) 

✓ 

follow the above directions, knitting 4 more double 
rows before you widen, after you widen and after 
you narrow. This will stretch round a 34-38 inch 
waist. 


[ 118 ] 




BODY BELT 


(circular) 

4 bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
10. 3y 2 ounces of 4-ply Jaeger camel’s hair wool 

in the natural colour. 

Cast on loosely 160 stitches on three needles— 
52, 52, 56—join them in a circle and knit in a rib of 



BODY BELT (CIRCULAR) 

knit 2 stitches and purl 2 stitches for 3 inches, 22 
rounds. 

Knit plain for 6 inches, 50 rounds. 

Knit in the rib for 3 inches, 22 rounds, and cast off 
very loosely. 


[ 119 ] 







KNITTING AND SEWING 


Press the work. 

This belt will stretch round a 32-38 inch waist. 
It measures 12 inches in depth. 

The Jaeger wool is very nice for body belts, as it 
is particularly warm and soft—it is procurable at 
any Jaeger shop. 


[ 120 ] 



BODY BELT 


(ribbed) 

4 bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
8, and 4 bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, 
size 10. 4 ounces of 4-plv fleecy, or 4-ply petticoat 
wool, in white, grey, or natural colour. 

Cast on 180 stitches very loosely, on three size 10 



BODY BELT (RIBBED) 

needles. Join them in a circle and knit in a rib of 
knit 1 stitch and purl 1 stitch for 45 rounds = 5^ 
inches. 

Change to the size 8 needles and knit in the rib 
for 45 rounds = 6 1 /2 inches, and the belt measures 
12 inches in depth. 

Cast off very loosely. 

[ 121 ] 













































































KNITTING AND SEWING 


This belt will stretch round a 32-38 inch waist. 

Using larger sized needles for the last part makes 
the belt give more at the lower edge over the hips 
while fitting snugly at the top. 

If preferred the belt can be knitted flat, on two 
needles tipped at one end. Knit, do not slip, the 
first stitch of every row and sew the belt together 
on the wrong side by overhanding with wool, placing 
the stitches exactly opposite each other. 


[ 122 ] 


KNEE CAPS 


2 bone knitting needles, with tips at one end, size 
9. 4 ounces of 4-ply fleecy wool, natural colour or 

white. 

Cast on 44 stitches and knit plain forward and 
backward for 12 double rows. Knit, do not slip the 



KNEE CAPS 

1st stitch of every row, this makes the edges more 
elastic. 

25th row. Knit 21 stitches, throw the wool over the 
top of the needle. Knit 2 stitches, throw the 
wool over the top of the needle and knit plain 
to the end of the row. 

[123] 






KNITTING AND SEWING 


26th row. Knit plain, knitting off the crossed-over 
wool as stitches. 

Repeat these last two rows, in the increased rows 
always increasing after the 21st stitch from the 
beginning and before the 21st stitch from the end, 
till you have 68 stitches on one needle. 

Knit plain for 12 double rows. 

73rd row. Knit plain till you come to the 21st and 
22nd stitches, knit them together. Knit on plain 
till you come to what are the 21st and 22nd 
stitches counting from the other end. Knit 
them together. Knit plain to the end of the row. 
74th row. Knit plain. 

Repeat these last 2 rows till you have 44 stitches 
on one needle. Knit plain for 12 double rows. 

Cast off and sew up the ends by overhanding them 
together with wool. 

Press the work. 

The Knee Cap measurements are: 


Width across (centre) . 5% inches. 

Length . 9 “ 


fl241 




PLAIN SOCKS 


5 steel knitting needles, size 14. 5 ounces of 4 

or 5-ply fingering, in natural colour, grey, khaki, or 
navy blue. 

These directions are based upon the scale of 11- 
12 rounds of plain knitting to the inch, which is 
what a medium knitter will knit with size 14 needles; 
but a tight knitter will knit from 1 to 2 rounds more 
to the inch, and a loose knitter will knit from 1 to 2 
rounds less. Therefore it will be necessary to meas¬ 
ure the individual work and alter the number of 
rounds given in the directions accordingly. 

The socks are worked on 3 needles, using a 4th to 
knit with, but a 5th needle is required for picking up 
the gusset stitches. 

By taking needles one size larger or smaller than 
size 14, the socks can be made one size larger or 
smaller either way. 

Note that all directions as to right and left , and 
the numbering of the needles, are given with the 
seam stitch and work facing you. 

THE SET 

Cast on 80 stitches loosely on 3 needles, 28 stitches 
on the 1st needle, 24 stitches on the 2nd needle, and 
28 stitches on the 3rd needle. 

Join this foundation row of stitches in a circle. 

[125] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


being careful not to twist it in doing so. Take both 
ends of the yarn and knit 2 stitches, purl 2 stitches. 
Drop the short end of the yarn and continue work¬ 
ing in ribs of knit 2 and purl 2 for 45 rounds = 4 
inches. By holding the yarn a little tighter in rib¬ 
bing than you do in plain knitting, the ribs will be 
smoother. 

Having completed 45 rounds of ribbing, knit 1 
plain round, in which you narrow as follows:— 

FIRST PLAIN ROUND 

Knit every 7th and 8th stitches together in the 
front loops of the stitches; do this 9 times; then 
knit the succeeding 3rd and 4th stitches together; do 
this twice. This will bring you to the end of the 
first plain round and you will have decreased 11 
stitches, leaving 69 stitches for the leg and ankle. 
Knit 90 plain rounds, which will equal 8 inches and 
bring you to the ankle, where you divide the stitches 
for the instep and heel, as follows :— 


BACK PART OF THE HEEL 

On the 91st plain round, or last round of the ankle, 
knit to within 17 stitches of the end of needle No. 
3. Take the 5th needle and knit 17 stitches. On 
the same needle knit off 18 stitches from needle No. 
1. Tie a bit of thread in the last stitch as you slip 
it off the needle. This marks the last stitch to be 
picked up for the right gusset. 

You now have 35 stitches on one needle. These 

[126] 


PLAIN SOCKS 


are the heel stitches, and this is the first row of the 
back of the heel. Note that the last 17 stitches of the 
last plain, or ankle, round are the first 17 stitches 
of the first row of the hack of the heel. The other 
34 stitches, or instep stitches, are to be divided upon 
2 needles and left until the heel is knitted and turned. 

OTHER ROWS OF THE BACK OF THE HEEL 

2nd row. Turn the work, slip 1 (slipping as though 
you were going to purl the stitch. This is called 
the purling slip and must be used on the purled 
rows of the back of the heel), purl 34. Tie a bit 
of thread in the last purled stitch as you drop it 
off the needle. This marks the first stitch to be 
picked up for the left gusset. 

3rd row. Turn the work, slip 1 (slipping as though 
you were going to knit the stitch. This is called 
the knitting slip and must be used on the knit¬ 
ting rows of the back of the heel), knit 34. 

4th row. Turn the work, slip 1, purl 34. Repeat 
3rd and 4th rows of heel until you have knitted 
29 rows and have 15 slipped stitches on each 
side of the heel to pick up for the gussets. Al¬ 
ways slip the first stitch of each row, whether it 
be knitted or purled. Turn on the 30th (purl¬ 
ing) row, as follows: 

TO TURN THE HEEL 

1st row. Slip 1, purl 14, purl the next 2 stitches 
together, purl 3, purl the next 2 stitches to- 

[127] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


gether. Stop right here; do not knit any fur¬ 
ther on this row. 

2nd row. With the stitches as they are, turn the 
work, slip 1 (with a knitting slip on the knitted 
rows and a purling slip on the purled rows), 
knit 4, knit 2 stitches together in the btick loops 
of the stitches. 

3rd row. Turn the work, slip 1, purl 5, purl 2 stitches 
together. 

4th row. Turn the work, slip 1, knit 6, knit 2 stitches 
together. 

5th row. Turn the work, slip 1, purl 7, purl 2 
stitches together. 

6th row. Turn the work, slip 1, knit 8, knit 2 stitches 
together. 

7th row. Turn the work, slip 1, purl 9, purl 2 stitches 
together. 

8th row. Turn the work, slip 1, knit 10, knit 2 
stitches together. 

9th row. Turn the work, slip 1, purl 11, purl 2 
stitches together. 

10th row. Turn the work, slip 1, knit 12, knit 2 
stitches together. 

11th row. Turn the work, slip 1, purl 13, purl 2 
stitches together. 

12th row. Turn the work, slip 1, knit 14, knit 2 
stitches together. 

13th row. Turn the work, slip 1, purl 15, purl 2 
stitches together. 

14th row. Turn the work, slip 1, knit 16, knit 2 
stitches together. 


[1281 


PLAIN SOCKS 


15tli row. Turn the work, slip 1, purlT6, purl the 
last 2 stitches together. 

16th and last row. Slip 1, knit 5, knit the next 2 
stitches together in the back loops of the 
stitches, knit 1, knit the next 2 stitches together 
in the front loops of the stitches, knit 6, knit the 
last 2 stitches together in the hack loops of the 
stitches. 

Your heel is now turned and reduced to 16 stitches. 
Take the 5th needle and knit up a stitch in each one 
of the 15 slipped stitches on the left side of the heel 
for the right gusset (with the seam stitch and work 
facing you). This is called picking up the gusset 
stitches. The knitted-up stitch must be taken in the 
lowest loop of all, which is the loop of the slipped 
stitch farthest from you. 

On needle No. 2 knit off the 34 instep stitches. 
With your extra needle knit up a stitch in each of 
the 15 slipped stitches on the right side of the heel 
for the left gusset. On this same needle knit off the 
first 8 stitches on the heel needle and transfer the 
last 8 stitches on the heel needle to needle No. 1. 
You now have 80 stitches for the round, divided as 
follows: 

23 stitches on needle No. 1, 34 stitches on needle 
No. 2, 23 stitches on needle No. 3. (Although you 
no longer have a centre heel stitch as such, you still 
reckon from the plain stitch it has become, for con¬ 
venience in numbering the rounds and designating 
the needles.) Knit 2 plain rounds. Be careful to 

[129] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


hold the yarn tightly at the V of the gusset, other¬ 
wise there will be a hole there. 

TO NARROW FOR THE GUSSETS 

1st needle. Knit plain to within the last 2 stitches 
on the 1st needle. Knit 2 stitches together in the 
front loops of the stitches. 

2nd needle. Knit plain. 

3rd needle. Knit 2 stitches together in the back 
loops of the stitches. Knit plain to the end of the 
needle. Knit 2 plain rounds. Repeat the above 
narrowing 5 times, knitting 2 plain rounds between 
the narrowing rounds. You will have 6 narrowings, 
all told, having decreased 12 stitches, which leaves 
68 stitches to knit the foot on. Knit 55 plain rounds 
for the foot, which will equal 5 inches. 

TO NARROW FOR THE TOE 

1st needle. Knit to within 4 stitches of the end 
of the needle. Knit 2 stitches together in the back 
loops of the stitches. Knit 2. 

2nd needle. Knit 2, knit 2 stitches together in 
the front loops of the stitches. Knit plain to within 
4 stitches of the end of the needle. Knit 2 stitches 
together in the back loops of the stitches. Knit 2. 

3rd needle. Knit 2, knit 2 stitches together in the 
front loops of the stitches. Knit plain to the end of 
the needle. This is the first narrowing round. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. Narrow again as above. 
Knit 2 plain rounds. Narrow. Knit 2 plain rounds. 

[130] 


PLAIN SOCKS 


Narrow. Knit 2 plain rounds. Narrow. Knit 1 
plain round. Narrow. Knit 1 plain round. Nar¬ 
row. Knit 1 plain round. Narrow. Knit 1 plain 
round. Narrow 5 rounds in succession. You will 
have decreased 52 stitches in 25 rounds and have re¬ 
duced your sock to 16 stitches. With the last nar¬ 
rowing round all the plain 16 stitches will have come 
in together at the tip of the toe, forming the pat¬ 
tern. Knit 1 plain round. This is the 26th and fin¬ 
ishing round. Knit to the end of needle No. 1 and 
transfer the 4 stitches on needle No. 3 to the same 
needle, this needle now becomes your hack needle 
and needle No. 2 becomes your front needle. Thread 
your yarn through a coarse, blunt darning, or tapes¬ 
try, needle, and weave the stitches together, as fol¬ 
lows : 

This is called darning in the weave, or Swiss darn¬ 
ing: 



DIAGRAM OF DARNING IN THE WEAVE 

[131] 




KNITTING AND SEWING 

Holding the sock in your left hand, with your first 
finger between the two needles and the darning- 
needle in your right, pass the darning-needle, as if 
purling, from the inner side through the first stitch 
on the front needle (the row nearest to you), leaving 
the stitch on the needle. Then pass the darning- 
needle as if purling through the first stitch on the 
back needle (the row furthest from you), again leav¬ 
ing the stitch on the needle. Next pass it as if knit¬ 
ting through the first stitch on the front needle (pre¬ 
viously passed through as if purling), and take the 
stitch off. Then pass the darning-needle, as if purl¬ 
ing, through the second stitch of the same row, leav¬ 
ing that stitch on the needle. Next pass it as if knit¬ 
ting, through the first stitch of the back needle (pre¬ 
viously passed through as if purling), and take the 
stitch off. Pass as if purling through the second 
stitch of the same row, leaving that stitch on the 
needle. Next pass the darning-needle as if knitting 
through the second stitch of the front needle, taking 
that stitch off; pass as if purling through the third 
stitch of the same row, and leave it on, etc. Con¬ 
tinue thus until all the stitches are used up. Fin¬ 
ish off by running the darning needle up and down 
the work a couple of times, as if darning. 

The main principle of this method of finishing is 
as follows:— 

1. (Front needle) Purl and leave on. 

2. (Back “ ) Knit and take off. 

3. ( “ “ ) Purl and leave on. 

4. (Front “ ) Knit and take off. 

[132] 



PLAIN SOCKS 


[1.33] 








KNITTING AND SEWING 

5. (Front needle) Purl and leave on. 

G. (Back “ ) Knit and take off, etc. 

LEG OF SOCK 


Ribbing ... 4 inches 

Leg. 8 

Back of heel. 3 “ 

Total length of leg.15 inches. 

\ ' 


FOOT OF SOCK 

» 

Heel measured across and gus¬ 


set measured long. 3 y 2 inches. 

Foot . 5 

Narrowings for toe. 2 y 2 “ 

Total length of foot.11 inches. 


The size of the foot may be increased or decreased 
V 2 inch by knitting 5 more rounds on the foot part, 
or by leaving 5 rounds out. 

A reinforced heel can be knitted as follows:— 

On the 3rd row of the back of the heel, * slip 1, 
knit 1, and repeat from * to the end of the row. 

2nd row. Slip 1 and purl back. 

Repeat these 2 rows for all the back of the heel. 

Or, take a ball of 2-plv wool and knit it in on the 
back of the heel and the turn of the heel, by holding 
it and your knitting wool together. 

Note that you need an even number of stitches 

[134] 










PLAIN SOCKS 


for the first reinforced heel, therefore knit the hack 
of this heel on 36 stitches, by picking up an extra 
stitch in the 18th stitch on the first forward row of 
the back of the heel, and on the 29th row lose this 
extra stitch by knitting it and the stitch to the left of 
it together, in order to get 35 stitches to turn the 
heel on. 

Press the socks on a sock block. 


[ 135 ] 


HEAVIER SOCKS 
IN 6-ply fingering 


Size 12 needles and 5 ounces of the wool. 

Scale: 10 rounds of knitting = 1 inch. 

Cast on 68 stitches, on three needles—24, 24, 20— 
join them in a circle and knit in a rib of knit 2 
stitches and purl 2 stitches for 40 rounds = 4 inches. 

1st plain round. Knit together every 11th and 
12th stitches 5 times. Knit together every 3rd and 
4th stitches twice. You will have decreased 7 stitches 
in the round and have 61 stitches left on the needles 
for the leg. Knit 80 plain rounds = 8 inches. 

Divide the stitches at the ankle, 30 for the instep, 
31 for the heel. On these 31 stitches alternately 
knit and purl 25 rows for the hack of the heel, slip¬ 
ping the first stitch of every row. Turn the heel on 
the 26th (purling) row, on the same principle as for 
the heel of a plain sock, that is, slip 1, purl 12, purl 
2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together. Turn, etc. Re¬ 
duce the heel to 14 stitches. Pick up 13 stitches on 
each side of the back of the heel for the gussets. 
You will have 70 stitches on the needles for the 
round. Knit 2 plain rounds. Decrease 10 stitches, 
all told, for the gussets, as you do for a plain sock, 
knitting 2 plain rounds between the decreasing 
rounds. After the last decreasing round you will 
have 60 stitches left on the needles for the foot. 
Knit 55 plain rounds = 5% inches. In the next 

[136] 


HEAVIER SOCKS 



HEAVIER SOCKS, IN 6-PLY FINGERING 

round decrease 4 stitches exactly as you do for 
plain sock. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease. 


[ 137 ] 











KNITTING AND SEWING 


Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease 5 rounds in succession. 

You will have decreased 44 stitches in 20 rounds 
and have 16 stitches left on the needles. Knit 1 
plain round and darn up the remaining 16 stitches 
in the weave (see page 131). 

Press the work. 

The measurements are the same as for the Plain 
Sock: 

Leg . 15 inches. 

Foot .. 11 “ 


in 3-ply wheeling 

(3-ply wheeling is a coarser and looser yarn than 
6-ply fingering, the latter is softer and more 
compact.) 

Size 12 needles and 5 ounces of the wheeling. 
Scale: 9 rounds of plain knitting = 1 inch. 

Cast on 64 stitches on three needles—20, 20, 24— 
join them in a circle and knit in a rib of knit 2 
stitches and purl 2 stitches for 36 rounds = 4 inches. 

1st plain round. Knit together every 7th and 
8th stitches 5 times. Knit together every 11th and 
12th stitches twice. You will have decreased 7 

[138] 





HEAVIER SOCKS 



HEAVIER SOCKS, IN 3-PLY WHEELING 

stitches in the round and have 57 stitches left on 
the needles for the leg*. 

Knit 72 plain rounds = 8 inches. 

Divide the stitches at the ankle, 28 for the instep, 
29 for the heel. On these 29 stitches alternately knit 
and purl 23 rows for the back of the heel, slipping 
the first stitch of every row. .Turn the heel on the 

[139] 












KNITTING AND SEWING 


24th (purling) row on the same principle as for the 
heel of a plain sock, that is, slip 1, purl 11, purl 2, 
stitches together, purl 3, purl 2 stitches together. 
Turn, etc. Reduce the heel to 14 stitches. Pick up 
12 stitches on each side of the back of the heel for 
the gusset. 

You will have 66 stitches on the needles for the 
round. Knit 2 plain rounds. Decrease 10 stitches, 
all told, for the gussets, as you do for a plain sock, 
knitting 2 plain rounds between the decreasing 
rounds. After the last decreasing round you will 
have 56 stitches left on the needles for the foot. 
Knit 45 plain rounds = 5 inches. In the next round 
decrease 4 stitches exactly as you do for a plain 
sock. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease 4 rounds in succession. 

You will have decreased 40 stitches in 19 rounds 
and have 16 stitches left on the needles. Knit 1 
plain round and darn up the remaining 16 stitches 
in the weave. Press the work. 

[140] 


HEAVIER SOCKS 
The measurements are:— 


Leg. 15 inches. 

Foot. 11 “ 


American 4-ply knitting yarn makes a heavier, 
coarser sock than Scotch fingering and works out at 
10 rounds of knitting to the inch. Some fingerings 
are finer than others, it depends upon the make. 
With the finer fingerings allow 2-3 more rounds 
of knitting to the inch. 

A sock should always be long enough to reach to 
the man’s breeches, which end just below the knee, 
as otherwise, when gaiters, or puttees, are on, there 
would be a gap here. 


[ 141 ] 




RIBBED SOCKS 


The same needles and wool as for plain socks (see 
page 125). Cast on as yon do for a plain sock, and 
simply continue the ribbing till the sock measures 12 
inches. 

Divide the stitches for the heel and instep, 40 for 
the heel and 40 for the instep. Be careful to divide 
in the centre of a knitted rib. Increase 1 stitch in 
the centre of the heel stitches (this is to get 41 
stitches for the heel). Knit the back of the heel 
and turn the heel as you do for a plain sock; but 
pick up 16 stitches for each gusset after turning the 
heel. Narrow for the gussets as you do for a plain 
sock, ribbing the instep stitches. 

Knit 5 1/2 inches for the foot, ribbing the stitches 
on the instep needle till you come to the toe; decrease 
the toe and finish the sock as for the plain sock. 

If you wish to do a different rib for the leg of the 
sock, knit the first 4 inches in a rib of knit 1 stitch 
and purl 1 stitch, then change to any desired rib that 
will divide into 80—knit 3, purl 2; knit 5, purl 3; 
and knit 4, purl 1; are all pretty—and rib for 8 
inches, till the sock measures 12 inches over all. 
Then divide the stitches for the heel. 

The illustrated sock is done in knit 2 and purl 2 
and then knit 6 and purl 2. 

This sock will measure 15 inches in length and the 
foot 11 inches. 


[ 142 ] 



RIBBED SOCKS 




TRENCH STOCKINGS 
TO WEAR UNDER RUBBER BOOTS 

5 bone knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
9. 11 ounces of 4-ply wheeling in dark grey. 

Cast on 68 stitches on 3 needles—20, 24, 24—join 
them in a circle and knit in a rib of knit 2 stitches 
and purl 2 stitches for 50 rounds = 7 inches. 

In the next round knit together every 8tli and 9th 
stitches, decreasing 7 stitches in the round. 

Knit 60 plain rounds on 61 stitches = 9 inches. 

On the next round knit 4, knit 2 stitches together 
in the front loops of the stitches, knit plain till you 
come to the last 7 stitches on the third needle, knit 2 
stitches together in the back loops of the stitches 
and knit 5. 

Knit 5 plain rounds. 

Repeat the last six rounds until you have reduced 
the stocking to 49 stitches. Knitting 5 plain rounds 
between the narrowing rounds, the narrowings will 
measure 5 inches. 

After the last narrowing round knit 35 plain 
rounds = 5 inches which brings you to the ankle. 
Divide the stitches as follows: 

24 stitches for the instep and 25 stitches for the 
heel, alternately knit and purl these 25 stitches for 
23 rows = 3y 2 inches, slipping the first stitch of 
every row. 

Turn the heel as for a plain sock, on the 24th 

[144] 




[ 145 ] 




TRENCH STOCKINGS 






KNITTING ANI) SEWING 


(purling) row, with 13 stitches to the left of the plain 
stitch which constitutes your seam stitch and 11 
stitches to the right of it (work to face you). Re¬ 
duce the heel to 12 stitches. Pick up 12 stitches 
for each gusset, which will give you 60 stitches on 
your needles for the round. Knit 2 plain rounds. 
Decrease 12 stitches for the instep, knitting 2 plain 
rounds between each narrowing round, decreasing 
as you do for a plain sock. 

Heel measured across and gusset measured long, 
5 inches. 

You will now have 48 stitches for the foot. 

Knit 30 plain rounds = 4 y 2 inches, which will 
bring you to the toe. Knit and narrow the toe in 
the same manner you do for a plain sock, and in this 
proportion:— 


1st round .Narrow. 

2nd and 3rd rounds.Knit plain. 

4th round .Narrow. 

5th and 6th rounds.Knit plain. 

7th round ..Narrow. 

8th and 9th rounds.Knit plain. 

10th round.Narrow. 

11th “ .Knit plain. 

12 th “ .Narrow. 

13th ‘ ‘ .Knit plain. 

14tli “ .Narrow. 

15th “ .Knit plain. 

16 th u .Narrow. 


[ 146 ] 















TRENCH STOCKINGS 

You will have 20 stitches left on the needles, knit 1 

* 

plain round, then knit to the end of needle No. 1, 
divide the stitches evenly upon two needles, front 
and back, and darn them up in the weave (see page 
131). Length of toe 2 y 2 inches. 

Press the stockings on a block. 


Length of stockings. 30 inches. 

“ “ foot . 12 


[ 147 ] 




SEAMAN’S STOCKINGS 


5 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
8. iy 2 -lbs. of 3-ply fisherman’s yarn, in sea blue, 
navy blue, or dark grey. 

Cast on 64 stitches on 3 needles—24, 20, 20—join 
them in a circle and knit in a rib of knit 2 stitches 
and purl 2 stitches for 40 rounds = 7 inches. 

Knit the next round plain and decrease 7 stitches 
by knitting together every 8th and 9th stitches in the 
round. You will have 57 stitches left on the needles. 

Knit 60 plain rounds = 9 inches. 

In the next round narrow for the calf, as fol¬ 
lows :— 

1st needle. Knit 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together 
in the front loops of the stitches. Knit plain to the 
end of the needle. 

2nd needle. Knit plain. 

3rd needle. Knit plain to within the last 5 stitches 
on the needle. Knit 2 stitches together in the back 
loops of the stitches and knit 3. 

Knit 4 plain rounds. 

Kepeat the above 5 rounds till you have narrowed 
6 times all told and have decreased 12 stitches, there 
will be 45 stitches left on the needles and the de- 
creasings will measure 4 inches. 

Knit 25 plain rounds = 4 inches. 

Divide the stitches at the ankle, putting 11 stitches 
on each of the two instep needles and 23 stitches on 

[148] 



seaman’s stockings 


[ 149 ] 





KNITTING AND SEWING 


the lieel needle; on these 23 stitches alternately knit 
and purl for 23 rows, slipping the first stitch of 
every row. 

Length of the back of the heel, 4 inches. 

On the 24th (purling) row, turn the heel, as given 
on page 127, that is, slip 1 stitch, purl 8, purl 2 to¬ 
gether, purl 3, purl 2 together, turn; slip 1 stitch, 
knit 4, knit 2 together in the back loops of the 
stitches, turn, and continue in this manner till the 
heel is reduced to 12 stitches. 

Pick up 12 stitches for each gusset. 

You will now have 58 stitches for the round. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease 2 stitches for the gussets in the next 
round, as you do for the gusset of plain socks (see 
page 130). 

Repeat this decreasing round twice. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease 1 round. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease 1 round. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease 1 round. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease 1 round. 

You will have decreased 14 stitches all told and 
have 44 stitches left on the needles. 

Length together of heel measured across and gus¬ 
set measured long, 5 inches. 

Knit 25 plain rounds for the foot, 4 inches. 

In the next round decrease 4 stitches exactly as 

[150] 


SEAMAN’S STOCKINGS 


you do for the first narrowing round of the toe of a 
plain sock (see page 130), and knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease 1 round. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease 1 round. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease 1 round. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease 1 round. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease 1 round. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease 2 rounds in succession. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

You will have decreased 32 stitches all told and 
have 12 stitches left on the needles. 

Knit plain to the end of needle No. 1. 

Transfer the 3 stitches on needle No. 3 to needle 
No. 1, this divides your stitches evenly upon 2 
needles. 

Break off the yarn, thread it through a coarse, 
blunt, darning-needle and darn up the toe of the 
stocking in the weave (see page 131). 

Press the stocking on a block. 

Length of toe finished. 3 inches. 

“ “ stocking. 28 “ 

“ “ foot. 12 

As each individual knits with a slightly different 
tension, it is not possible to give exact rounds to 

[151]' 





KNITTING AND SEWING 


the inch, therefore knitting should be worked pref¬ 
erably by measurement; but with the above needles 
and yarn an ordinary knitter will knit 6-7 rounds to 
the inch. 


P52] 


RIBBED STOCKINGS 


4 steel knitting needles, pointed at both ends, size 
13. 12 ounces of 3-ply wheeling, in khaki colour or 
navy blue. 

Cast on 84 stitches, on 3 needles, join them in a 
circle and knit in a rib of knit 2 stitches and purl 2 
stitches for 10 rounds = 1 inch. 

Change to a rib of knit 5, purl 2 stitches, for 116 
rounds = 13 inches. 

127th round. Purl together the 2 purled stitches at 
the end of needle No. 3, decreasing 1 stitch. 

Rib for 5 rounds. 

133rd round. Knit together the last two stitches 
on needle No. 3 (the last one is a purled stitch), 
bringing together the two ribs of 5 knitted stitches 
each. 

Rib for 5 rounds, knitting these 10 stitches plain. 

139th round. In this round, of these 10 stitches, 
knit 2 plain, knit 2 together, knit 2 plain, knit 2 to¬ 
gether, and end knit 2, decreasing 2 stitches and leav¬ 
ing 8 knitted stitches in this rib. 

Rib 5 rounds. 

145th round. In this round, of these 8 stitches 
knit 1 plain, knit 2 together, knit 2 plain, knit 2 to¬ 
gether, knit 1 plain, leaving 6 stitches in this rib. 

Rib 5 rounds. 

151st round. In this round, of these 6 stitches, 

[153] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 1, leaving 
4 stitches in this rib. 

Rib 5 rounds. 

157th round. In this round, of these 4 plain 
stitches, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, leaving 2 
stitches of this rib. 

Knit 5 rounds. 

163rd round. Of these 2 plain stitches knit 2 to¬ 
gether. 

164th round. Purl this remaining stitch into the 
next purled stitch, leaving 4 purled stitches together. 

Rib 5 rounds. 

170th round. In this round, of these 4 purled 
stitches, purl 2 together, purl 2. together. 

This brings you back to the 5 plain and 2 purled 
rib again and the stocking will measure 20 inches 
over-all. Knit in the rib for 30 rounds = 3 inches. 

At the ankle divide the 70 stitches as follows:— 

34 stitches for the heel and 36 stitches for the in¬ 
step. 

Keep the centre rib of the back of the stocking in 
the centre of the heel. 

Knit in the rib forward and backward on the heel 
needle for 25 rows = 2 1 /? inches, slipping the first 
stitch of every row. On the last forward row in¬ 
crease 1 stitch in the 17th stitch. Turn the heel on 
the 26th (purling) row. Turn the same as heel for a 
plain sock (see page 127). 

Pick up 13 stitches for each gusset, rib the instep 
stitches and continue ribbing these stitches till you 
reach the toe. 


[ 154 ] 


RIBBED STOCKINGS 


The sole is knitted plain. 

Knit 2 rounds after picking np the gusset stitches. 
Narrow 4 times for the gusset (as in a plain sock), 
knitting 2 rounds between the narrowing rounds. 



RIBBED STOCKINGS 

Heel measured across and gusset measured long, 
3y 2 inches. 

Knit and rib 42 rounds for the foot = 5 inches. 
The toe is knitted plain. For the toe, knit 5 plain 

[155] 














KNITTING AND SPAYING 


rounds. Narrow 4 stitches as for a plain sock, but 
leave 3 plain stitches between each group of nar¬ 
rowings instead of 4. 

Knit 3 plain rounds. 

Narrow. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Narrow. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Repeat the last 2 rounds till you have 22 stitches 
left. Knit 1 plain round and in this round narrow 
2 stitches on the front or instep needle only. You 
will have 20 stitches left, knit to the end of Needle 
No. 1, divide the stitches evenly on two needles and 
darn the stocking up in the weave (see page 131). 
The toe measures 3 inches. 

Press the stocking on a stocking block if you have 
one. 

The measurements are:— 

Length of leg. 26 inches. 

“ “ foot . 11 Vs u 


[ 156 ] 




PUTTEE STOCKINGS 


4 steel knitting needles, size 13. 5 skeins of 4-ply 

or 5-ply fingering. 3 yds. khaki tape, % of an inch 

wide. 

Cast on 84 stitches, 28 on each needle, 

1st to the 36th round. Knit 1, purl 1. 

Change to plain knitting and commence spiral. 

37th round. * Purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 25; repeat 
from * to end of round. 

38th round. * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 24; 
repeat from * to end. 

39th round. * Knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 23; 
repeat from * to end. 

40th round. * Knit 3, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 22; 
repeat from * to end. 

41st round. * Knit 4, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 21 ; 
repeat from * to end. 

42nd round. * Knit 5, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 20; 
repeat from * to end. 

43rd round. * Knit 6, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 19; 
repeat from * to end. 

44th round. * Knit 7, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 18; 
repeat from * to end. 

45th round. * Knit 8, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 17; 
repeat from * to end. 

46th round. * Knit 9, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 16; 
repeat from * to end. 

[157] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 

47th round. * Knit 10, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 15; 
repeat from * to end. 

48th round. * Knit 11, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 14; 
repeat from * to end, 

49tli round. *Knit 12, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 13; 
repeat from * to end. 

• 50th round. *Knit 13, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 12; 
repeat from * to end. 

51st round. *Knit 14, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 11; 
repeat from * to end. 

52nd round. 'Knit 15, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 10; 
repeat from * to end. 

53rd round. * Knit 16, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 9; 
repeat from * to end. 

54th round. *Knit 17, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 8; 
repeat from * to end. 

55th round. * Knit 18, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 7; 
repeat from * to end. 

56th round. * Knit 19, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 6; 
repeat from * to end. 

57th round. * Knit 20, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 5; 
repeat from * to end. 

58th round. * Knit 21, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 4; 
repeat from * to end. 

59th round. * Knit 22, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 3; 
repeat from * to end. 

60th round. * Knit 23, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2; 
repeat from * to end. 

61st round. * Knit 24, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1; 
repeat from * to end. 

[158] 


PUTTEE STOCKINGS 


62nd round. * Knit 25, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1; repeat 
from * to end. 

63rd round. * Purl 1, knit 25, purl 1, knit 1; repeat 
from * to end. 

64th round. * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 25, purl 1; repeat 
from * to end. 

Repeat from the beginning of the 37th round to 
the end of the 64th twice, making three spirals 
inclusive. 



PUTTEE STOCKINGS 


[ 159 ] 






KNITTING AND SEWING 

Now commence to decrease as follows:— 

121st round. * Purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 11, knit 2 
together, knit 12; repeat from *. 

122nd round. * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 23; 
repeat from *. 

123rd round. * Knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 22; 
repeat from *. 

124tli round. * Knit 3, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 21; 
repeat from *. 

125tli round. * Knit 4, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 20; 
repeat from *. 

126tli round. * Knit 5, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 19; 
repeat from *. 

127tli round. * Knit 6, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 18; 
repeat from *. 

128th round. * Knit 7, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 17; 
repeat from *. 

129th round. *Knit 8, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 16; 
repeat from *. 

130th round. * Knit 9, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 15; 
repeat from *. 

131st round. * Knit 10, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 14; 
repeat from *. 

132nd round. * Knit 11, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 
11; knit 2 together; repeat from *. 

133rd round. * Knit 12, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 11; 
repeat from *. 

134th round. * Knit 13, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 10; 
repeat from * 

135th round. * Knit 14, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 9; 
repeat from *. 


[ 160 ] 


PUTTEE STOC KINGS 


136th round. * Knit 15, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 8; 
repeat from *. 

137th round. * Knit 16, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 7; 
repeat from *. 

138th round. * Knit 17, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 6; 
repeat from *. 

139th round. * Knit 18, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 5; 
repeat from *. 

140th round. * Knit 19, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 4; 
repeat from *. 

141st round. * Knit 20, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 3; 
repeat from *. 

142nd round. * Knit 21, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2; 
repeat from *. 

143rd round. * Knit 22, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1; 
repeat from *. 

144th round * Knit 23, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1; repeat 
from *. 

145th round. * Purl 1, knit 23, purl 1, knit 1; repeat 
from *. 

146th round. * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 23, purl 1; repeat 
from *. 

(End of fourth spiral.) 

147th round. * Purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 10, knit 2 
together, knit 11; repeat from*. 

148th round. * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 21; 
repeat from *. 

149th round. * Knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 20; 
repeat from *. 

150th round. * Knit 3, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 19; 
repeat from *. 


[ 161 ] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


151st round. * Knit 4, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 18; 
repeat from *. 

152nd round. * Knit 5, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 17; 
repeat from *. 

153rd round. * Knit 6, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 16; 
repeat from *. 

154tli round. * Knit 7, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 15; 
repeat from *. 

155th round. * Knit 8, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 14; 
repeat from *. 

156th round. * Knit 9, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 13; 
repeat from *. 

157th round. * Knit 10, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 
10, knit 2 together; repeat from*. 

158th round. * Knit 11, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 
10; repeat from *. 

159th round. * Knit 12, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 9; 
repeat from *. 

160th round. * Knit 13, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 8; 
repeat from *. 

161st round. * Knit 14, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 7; 
repeat from *. 

162nd round. * Knit 15, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 6; 
repeat from *. 

163rd round. * Knit 16, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 5; 
repeat from *. 

164th round. * Knit 17, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 4; 
repeat from *. 

165th round. * Knit 18, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 3; 
repeat from *. 


[ 162 ] 


PUTTEE STOCKINGS 


166th round. * Knit 19, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2; 
repeat from *. 

167th round. * Knit 20, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1; 
repeat from *. 

168th round. * Knit 21, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1 ; repeat 
from *. 

169th round. * Purl 1, knit 21, purl 1, knit 1; repeat 
from *. 

170th round. * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 21, purl 1; repeat 
from *. 


(End of fifth spiral.) 

171st round. * Purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, knit 2 
together, knit 10; repeat from *. 

172nd round. * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 19; 
repeat from *. 

173rd round. ‘ Knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 18; 
repeat from *. 

174th round. * Knit 3, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 17; 
repeat from *. 

175th round. * Knit 4, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 16; 
repeat from *. 

176th round. * Knit 5, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 15; 
repeat from *. 

177th round. * Knit 6, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 14; 
repeat from *. 

178th round. * Knit 7, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 13; 
repeat from *. 

179th round. * Knit 8, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 12; 
repeat from *. 

180th round. * Knit 9, pur.l 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 9, 
knit 2 together; repeat from *. 

[163] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 


181st round. * Knit 10, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 9; 
repeat from *. 

182nd round. * Knit 11, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 8; 
repeat from *. 

183rd round. * Knit 12, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 7; 
repeat from *. 

184th round. * Knit 13, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 6; 
repeat from *. 

185th round. * Knit 14, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 5; 
repeat from *. 

186th round. * Knit 15, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 4; 
repeat from *. 

187th round. * Knit 16, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 3; 
repeat from *. 

188th round. * Knit 17, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2; 
repeat from *. 

189tli round. * Knit 18, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1; 
repeat from *. 

190th round. * Knit 19, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1; repeat 
from *. 

191st round. * Purl 1, knit 19, purl 1, knit 1; repeat 
from *. 

192nd round. * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 19, purl 1; repeat 
from *. 

(End of sixth spiral.) 

Knit in rib of knit 1, purl 1, for 28 rounds, and 

cast off in pattern. 



[1641 


BED SOCKS 


2 bone knitting needles, with tips at one end, size 
6. 4 ounces of 4-ply fleecy wool, or 4-ply double 

knitting wool, in natural color, white, pink, or blue. 

Cast on 60 stitches. Knit forward and backward 
in a rib of knit 3 stitches and purl 3 stitches, for 25 
rows. 

Knit, do not slip, the first stitch of the ribbing; 
but after that slip the first stitch of every row. Keep 
the wool in front as you slip the stitch, with a purl¬ 
ing slip, then put the wool back and knit. This makes 
a chain stitch edge for sewing up when finished. 
When the ribbing is finished, decrease 10 stitches in 
the next row by knitting together the last two 
stitches in every plain knitted rib. 

Knit plain forward and backward for 52 double 
rows. * 

In the next row, slip 1, knit the next 2 stitches on 
the needle together and counting from here, knit the 
26th and 27th stitches together in the back loops of 
the stitches, knit the 28th and 29th stitches together 
in the front loops of the stitches, knit to within the 
last 3 stitches on the needle, knit 2 stitches together 
and end knit 1. 

Knit the next row back plain. 

Knit 1 plain double row. 

Repeat these last 2 double rows till you have de- 

[165] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 

creased 16 stitches and have 34 stitches left on one 
needle. 

Remember that on the second decreasing row you 
knit together the 24th and 25th stitches, the 26th and 
27th stitches. 

In the third decreasing row, the 22nd and 23rd 
stitches, the 24th and 25th stitches and so on. 



BED SOCKS 


Cast off and sew np the sock by overhanding the 
bottom and sides together with wool, on the wrong 
side, placing the stitches exactly opposite each other 
and taking up the inner edge of each stitch. 

The ribbing will measure 4 inches, the plain knit¬ 
ting 14 inches, making the sock 18 inches over all. 

[ 166 ] 






DOUBLE KNITTED BEDSOGKS 


5 bone knitting needles 12 inches long, pointed at 
both ends, size 6. 8 ounces of 4-ply fleecy or petti¬ 
coat wool in natural colour, white, pink, or blue. 

Cast on 92 stitches on one needle. 

1st row. Knit plain. 

2nd row. Slip the first stitch with a purling slip 
and the wool in front, put the wool back and knit 1, 
* put the wool in front, slip 1 with a purling slip, 
put the wool back and knit 1. Repeat from * to the 
end of the row, ending knit 1. 

Repeat this 2nd row till the work measures 12 
inches in length, 75 rows. 

Slip 1 stitch, knit and slip 22 stitches, take off 
these 23 stitches on an extra needle and knit and 
slip to the end of the row. 

On the next row slip 1, knit and slip 22, take off 
these 23 stitches on an extra needle. 

This brings you to the 46 stitches in the centre for 
the heel. With these 46 stitches on one needle : 

Knit and slip 45 stitches, turn: 

U U i i ^ U it 

a u n n u 

and continue slipping and knitting in this manner, 
omitting 1 stitch at the end of every row till there 
are 18 stitches left on the needle. 

Be careful to always keep the slipped stitches 

[167] 



KNITTING AND SEWING 

slipped and the knitted stitches knitted and to hold 
the wool very tightly, as the heel stitches stretch. 

With 18 stitches on one needle, reverse the above 
process, knitting and slipping 1 more stitch at the 



DOUBLE KNITTED BED SOCKS 

end of every row till there are 46 stitches on one 
needle again. Continue on with this row and knit 
and slip the 23 slipped off stitches on the left end. 

On the next row, slip 1, knit and slip 22, take off 
stitches at the other end. 

[168] 





DOUBLE KNITTED BEDSOCIvS 

You will now have all the 92 stitches on the needle 
again. 

Knit and slip till the work measures 6 l /o inches = 
40 rows. Then decrease as follows:— 

Put all the odd numbered stitches on one needle 
and the even numbered stitches on the other needle, 
then divide this round of 92 stitches upon 4 needles, 
23 stitches on each needle, and use the 5th needle 
to knit with. 

Count the round as beginning with the stitch that 
was the first slipped stitch of the row:— 

1st narrowing round. Knit 8, knit the next 2 stitches 
together in the back loops of the stitches, knit 3, 
knit the next 2 stitches together in the front 
loops of the stitches, knit 16, knit the next 2 
stitches together in the back loops of the stitches, 
knit 3, knit the next 2 stitches together in the 
front loops of the stitches, knit 16, knit the next 
2 stitches together in the back loops of the 
stitches, knit 3, knit the next 2 stitches together 
in the front loops of the stitches, knit 16, knit the 
next 2 stitches together in the back loops of the 
stitches, knit 3, knit the next 2 stitches together 
in the front loops of the stitches and end the 
round knit 8. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease for 1 round as above, beginning the 
round knit 7, and knitting 14 plain stitches instead of 
16, end knit 7. 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease for 1 round, beginning the round knit 6, 

[169] 


KNITTING AND SEWING 

and knitting 12 plain stitches instead of 14, end knit 

6 . 

Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Decrease for 1 round, beginning the round knit 5, 
and knitting 10 plain stitches instead of 12, end 
knit 5. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease for 1 round, beginning the round knit 4, 
and knitting 8 plain stitches instead of 10, end knit 
4. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

Decrease for 2 rounds in succession, beginning the 
rounds knit 3 and knit 2, respectively, and knitting 
first 6 and then 4 plain stitches; end the rounds 
knit 3 and knit 2. 

Knit 1 plain round. 

You will have decreased 56 stitches all told and 
have 36 stitches left on the needles. Break off a long 
end of wool, replace the 36 stitches on one needle in 
their order as though for double knitting, on a sec¬ 
ond needle take 8 stitches from one end, on a third 
needle take 10 stitches from the other end. Place 
the sides of the sock together, having the 18 centre 
stitches on one needle at the back and darn the 
stitches up in the weave (see page 131), taking 2 at a 
time. 

Sew up the sock from the top to the centre of the 
toe, laying the edges together and running the wool 
through the centre of the opposite rows of knitting 
with a blind stitch, the joining will not show. 

Press the work. 


[ 170 ] 


DOUBLE KNITTED BEDSOCKS 


This sock is reversible. 
It measures— 

Leg, over-all . 

Foot, . 


15 inches 
11 “ 


Note. The heel stitches are apt to stretch, in which 
case when the heel is knitted pull up the slackened 
stitches and divide the loose wool through the 
stitches of that row, by pulling it along, a stitch at 
a time. All loose stitches can be tightened in this 
manner. 


[ 171 ] 




MONEY BELT 
(34-37-inch waist) 

39 inches of heavy canvas belting, 3 inches wide 
(the kind used for saddle girths). 2 patent snap 
fasteners. 2 prong (bridle) buckles, 1-incli wide. 

A piece of soft leather 12 x 6 inches (the leather 
used in the illustrated belt is pigskin), cut 2 pockets 
out of this, 5x3 inches and 2 pocket flaps 5x2% 
inches deep. With an embroidery punch make a hole 
in the centre of each curved edge of the flaps, and 
slit % of an inch above the hole. 

Turn up % of an inch of the ends of the belting 
and stitch them down on the face of the belt with a 
strip of leather % of an inch wide, using strong linen 
thread to sew with. 

Stitch the right pocket flap on the upper edge of 
the belt 5% inches from the right end, and the left 
pocket flap 4 inches from the left end. Stitch the 
pockets on the face of the belt directly below the 
flaps. Insert the patent fasteners in the pockets to 
correspond with the holes in the flaps. 

Cut 2 straps of the leather, 8 x % inches, punched 
with 8 holes, and taper one end of each. Cut 2 strips 
of leather 3 x 1% inches and stitch down the 2 
straps with one of them 3% inches from the right 
end of the belt; with the other strip stitch down the 
two buckles 1% inches from the left end of the belt. 
The buckles must be run on leather straps 3% x % 

[172] 


MONEY BELT 


inches before stitching. Stitch down a % inch strap 
in the centre of the buckle piece, this is to run the 
perforated leather straps through after they are 
buckled. 

Note that the directions for “ right and left” are 
given as though the belt Were on. 



MONEY BELT 


If this belt is sewed on a machine you will need 
No. 36 linen thread and a No. 4 machine needle. 

The illustrated belt was sewn by hand and the 
edges of the leather marked with a line drawn by a 
hat pin heated red hot. 

Sew around the leather first with an unthreaded 
machine, to mark the holes properly for the stitch¬ 
ing by hand. 


[ 173 ] 













MONEY BELT 

(to he worn underneath the clothing) 

33-37-inch waist 

1 yd. of strong, twilled, cotton material, ZZ inches 
wide, in grey or brown. 

4 yds. of cotton binding braid to match, % of an 
inch wide. 

20 inches of canvas belting, 1 inch wide. 

2 1 -inch prong buckles and 5 patent snap fas¬ 
teners. 

Cut a strip 36 inches long and 6 x / 2 inches wide, 
fold it together the long way and stitch all around 
it. Stitch twice through the middle of the strip. 

Cut 4 pockets 5% inches wide and % °f an inch 
deeper than the depth of the belt, curve down the 
top edge slightly. 

Cut 4 flaps, curved out on the lower edge, 5 y 2 
inches long and 2y 2 inches deep, cut these flaps 
double. 

Bind the turnover part of the flaps and the top of 
the pockets with braid. 

Stitch the pockets and flaps on the belt, spacing 
them 1 y 2 inches apart; put the first pocket 6y 2 inches 
from the right end of the belt, this will bring the 
last pocket 4 inches from the left end of the belt. 

Bind the belt all around with braid. 

Cut two 6 V 2 inches strips of the canvas belting and 
sew one end of each to a point; stitch these down, 

[174] 


7 """ 


MONEY BELT 


4 inches from the right end of the belt with an 14/2 
inch wide piece of material. 

Run the 2 buckles on 3 inch strips of the same 
belting and stitch them down with an V/> inch wide 
piece of the material, 1 inch from the left end of the 



MONEY BEET, TO BE WORN UNDERNEATH THE CEOTHING 


belt. Stitch a % inch strip just beyond them to run 
the straps through when the buckles are fastened, 
and put in the snaps to fasten the pockets down. 

These directions allow *4 of an inch to turn in on 
all edges. 

This belt can be washed. 


[ 175 ] 












CHAMOIS LEATHER BODY PROTECTOR 


2 of the largest, soft, yellow chamois skins, the 
kind used to clean with. 6 yds. of brown silk seam 
binding, % of an inch wide. 10 large patent snap 
fasteners. 



CHAMOIS LEATHER BODY PROTECTOR 

Cut the skins out like the illustration. If you can¬ 
not fit them on a man, button a man’s coat in the 
correct size around a pillow and use that. Bind the 

[176] 











CHAMOIS LEATHER BODY PROTECTOR 


edges all around with the seam binding, sewing up 
the right shoulder and under-arm seam flat, i. e., 
making an overlapping seam. Stay both sides of the 
left shoulder seam and left under-arm seam with 
extra seam binding stitched close to the inside edge, 
and sew the snaps on this, 4 snaps for the shoulder 
and 6 for the under-arm. 

34 to 38 inches is an average chest measure, and 18 
to 22 inches an average length. Allow one inch more 
for the length of the back than the front. 

The protector should fit up well round the neck 
and arm-holes, but allow freedom of arm motion. 

It is to be worn between the outer and under 
shirts, and affords the greatest protection against 
cold and wet. 


[ 177 ] 


CHAMOIS LEATHER WAISTCOAT 



2 large, or 4 small, chamois skins. 1 yd. of 40 
inch wide, grey, twilled flannel. 7 medium sized 
smoked pearl buttons. 


CHAMOIS LEATHER WAISTCOAT 

Get Butterick’s Pattern No. 1799, for a plain 
waistcoat. 

After cutting out the waistcoat, in the chest size 
required, take the chamois part to a shop where 

[178] 






CHAMOIS LEATHER WAISTCOAT 


pleating and pinking are done, they will perforate 
the skin with evenly spaced, small, ventilating holes 
with a stamping machine. Or, you can punch the 
holes yourself with a small embroidery punch, spac¬ 
ing them in rows 2 inches apart, and 2 inches between 
the holes. 

Make up the waistcoat by machine, like the illus¬ 
tration, the two buttoned back revers can be either 
closed to the throat or buttoned back into lapels, so 
that they will not show under a coat. 

This waistcoat is very warm, yet ventilated. 

Length of front from shoulder seam 21 inches. 

“ “ back, from centre . 25 “ 


[ 179 ] 





CHAMOIS LEATHER UNDERSHIRT AND SHORT 

DRAWERS 

Materials required: 9 yds. of white linen tape, 
% inch wide, 8 medium and 3 large, flat, white, linen 
buttons. 1 yd. of buff colored galatea, or very strong 
muslin. 



CHAMOIS LEATHER UNDERSHIRT 

The number of skins required will depend upon 
their size—get two Butterick’s Patterns Nos. 4550 
and 7228 for a man’s undershirt and short drawers 
—by measuring the patterns and the skins you can 
tell how many of the latter you will need. Use the 

[180] 






UNDERSHIRT AND SHORT DRAWERS 


largest and softest skins as the cheaper ones will 
not wash well. 

The garments are to be made up by machine, like 
the illustrations. 



CHAMOIS LEATHER SHORT DRAWERS 

Sew flat, or tailor’s overlapping seams, reinforce 
with rows of tape stitched on the back of the but¬ 
tons and button-holes, working the latter through 
the leather and tape and stay the crotch inside with 
a piece of the galatea. 

The arm-hole seam directly under the arm is left 

[ 181 ] 





KNITTING ANT) STAVING 


open for 3 inches and bound around with tape—this 
is for ventilation. 

These under garments are light and warm, and 
very practical for air and naval men. 


[ 182 ] 


CHAMOIS LEATHER SOCKS 


2 medium sized chamois skins. 4% yds. of white 
cotton tape y 2 inch wide. Cut the socks like the 
diagram, to any required size—the diagram is for 
a size 11 sock. 

Sew the socks by machine, making flat, overlappin 
seams. Turn the top hem over on the outside, facin 
it down with tape, and run a piece of tape 52 inches 
long through the hem, stitching it firmly in the centre 
back. 


[ 183 ] 


crq aq 


- V 



[ 184 ] 





Chamois Leather Sock /n three pieces 


2 pieces for the /eg £ 
i for the foot & ankle F 
Join together as marked 
in Diagram. 

Join A & B together 
also C & D. 

Join up side seams. 

Run tape in the bottom. 
Leave small opening at 
one side as marked. 
Sew flat overlapping seams. 




V 

: 






Length of Foot /2 m. 

Width of Ankle 5L in. 

Join here 

Width of Ca/f 6Lin. 

Width of Top 6 in. 
Length of Sock 19/in. 



[ 185 ] 


CHAMOIS LEATHER SOCKS 


























HEAVY PYJAMAS 


1 pair of Jaeger blankets, 48 x 63 inches, heaviest 
Weight. They can also be made of any soft, thick 
blankets in dark colours, in which case 1 large 



HEAVY PYJAMAS-COAT 

blanket 94 x 100 inches will do. 1 ready made cord, 
for tying. 4 pearl buttons. 

Get Butterick’s Pattern, No. 9492, for plain py- 

[186] 






HEAVY PYJAMAS 


jamas, and follow the illustrated diagram, cutting 
them the desired size. 

Sew the pyjamas very strongly. 



HEAVY PYJAMAS-PANTS 

It is not possible to buy pyjamas heavy enough 
for active service winter wear, except the ready 
made Jaeger ones. 


[ 187 ] 




CROCHETED SILK TIES 
(these ties can only be worn with jackets 

THAT HAVE TURNED DOWN COLLAR AND LAPELS) 

Steel crochet hook, size 4%. 1 spool of Head & 
Son’s (191-a, Sloane Street, London, S.W.l) knit¬ 
ting silk, khaki colour, Nos. 28%, or 28% ; or 2 spools 
of Pearsall’s knitting silk, shade No. 185 (a slightly 
greener khaki). 

Chain 26 stitches, allow 1, 2, or 3 stitches to turn 
on according to the stitch you crochet in. 

Work forward and back for 15 inches for the long 
end. 

Narrow for the neck by decreasing 2 stitches in 
every other double row, missing the stitch next to 
the last stitch of the row, till you have 11 or 13 
stitches left for the neck, 11 in a plain, or 13 in a 
looser, stitch. Crochet 14 inches for the neck, 
measured tightly stretched, or more or less accord¬ 
ing to the neck size you are making. This will make 
a 15 inch or medium neck (% inch each of the nar¬ 
rowing and widening measure in with the neck part). 
Widen 2 stitches every other double row till you 
have 26 stitches again. Crochet the widening stitch 
in the stitch next to the last stitch of the row. 

Crochet 10 inches for the short end, and finish oft. 

Overhand each end with a needleful of the same 
silk. Dampen and press the tie. Work very tightly. 

[188] 




DOUBLE CROCHET TIE 


TREBLE CROCHET TIE 

[189] 








1 ROW TREBLE & 3 ROWS DOUBLE CROCHET COMBINED 

[190] 









CROCHETED SILK TIES 


Suitable stitches are:— 

1. Double crochet (as illustrated). 

2. Treble crochet (as illustrated). 

These can be done picking up on all the stitch or 
only one-half of it. 

3. 1 row of treble, alternated with 1, 2, or 3 rows 

of double crochet. (The illustrated tie is the 
last.) 

4. 1st row, double crochet. 

2nd row * 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet 
down into the stitch of the preceding row, and 
repeat from * to the end of the row. Repeat 
these 2 rows for all the work. 

5. 1, 2 or 3 rows of double crochet alternated with 2 

rows of treble crochet. 


FANCY CROCHETED TIE-“CURZON” DESIGN 

Steel hook and silk as above. 

Chain 31 stitches. 

1st row. 2 double crochet and 3 chain into every 3rd 
chain. Work the 3 chain throughout this design 
very tightly. 

2nd row. Turn, 3 chain and 2 double crochet under 
the 3 chain of previous row, taking care to work 
one double crochet only into the last stitch of 
the tie. 

Repeat 2nd row until you have worked 15 inches. 

To decrease for the neck. Miss 1 hole as near the 
centre of the row as possible. Decrease in this man- 

1191] 




V 








CROCHETED SILK TIES 


ner every 3rd row until there are only 3 holes left. 
Work 14 inches for the neck, measured stretched. 

To increase, work 3 chain and 2 double crochet 
twice into 1 hole as near the centre of the row as 
possible. Increase every 3rd row until you have the 
same number of holes as when you started. 

Work 10 inches for the short end. 

Finish oft. Dampen and press the tie. 


KNITTED SILK TIE 

15-INCH NECK 

4 short steel knitting needles, size 18. 1 spool of 
Head & Son’s silk, as above. 

Cast on 54 stitches, join them in a circle and knit 
plain for 15 inches. 

On the next round, knit 1, knit 2 stitches together 
in the front loops of the stitches, knit 22, knit the 
26th and 27tli stitches together in the back loops of 
the stitches, knit 1, knit the 29th and 30th stitches 
together in the front loops of the stitches, knit 22, 
knit the 53rd and 54tli stitches together, in the back 
loops of the stitches. 

Knit 4 plain rounds. 

Repeat the above narrowing round and 4 plain 
rounds till you have 26 stitches left on the needles. 

Knit for 15 inches, measured stretched, for the 
neck. 

In the next round widen 2 stitches (picking up the 
stitches as you do for the thumb gusset of a glove) 
at each of the two edges of the tie, and knitting 1 
plain stitch between the 2 stitches you increase on. 

Knit 4 plain rounds. 

Repeat these last 5 rounds till you have 54 stitches 
again on the needles. Knit for 10 inches. Cast off. 

Sew up the ends, dampen and press the tie. 


[ 194 ] 



KNITTED SILK TIE 


[ 195 ] 










FORECASTLE BOOK BAG 


I 14 yds. of plain white or unbleached material— 
canvas, linen crash, kitchen towelling, or cotton 
galatea—it must be very strong and 18 inches wide. 
2 large buttons. 2 1-inch brass curtain rings. 3 yds. 



FORECASTLE BOOK BAG 

of cotton braid, or tape 1-inch wide, in red or dark 
blue. 

Bind one end of the material with braid and turn 
it up to make a pocket 12 inches deep. Into each side 
of this pocket put a gusset 3 inches wide at the top 

[196] 






FORECASTLE BOOK BAG 

and tapering to a point. Allow 12 inches for the top 
flap. 

Bind all around with braid, beginning at a top cor¬ 
ner of the pocket. 

Sew 2 large buttons, the size of a 50c. piece, on 
the pocket, three inches down from the top edge and 
3 inches in from the sides. 

Make button-holes in the flap, to correspond with 
the buttons. 

Sew 2 brass curtain rings on the back where the 
top turns over and 3 inches in from the side edges. 
These are to hang the bag up by. Run a tape loop 
through both rings and sew it firmly together. 


[ 197 ] 


DITTY BAG OR HOUSEWIFE 


A piece of thin oilcloth, or any heavy material will 
do, in any dark color—blue, green, or brown—1-yd. 
long and 6 inches wide. Another piece of plain 
woollen material, flannel, or serge, the same size—in 
red, or light grey. 

4% yds. of cotton binding braid, to match the out¬ 
side, 1-inch wide. 2 glove buttons. 

Baste the two strips together, bind both ends with 
braid, and turn them up to make 2 pockets, 6 inches 
deep. Sew up the sides and bind all around with 
braid. 

Cut four 3x4 inch pieces of the lining material. 
Notch them all round and sew 2 pieces on the centre 
of each pocket, with a glove button in the centre. 

On one end sew 40 inches of the braid to tie around 
the bag. 

To fill the pockets: 

2 skeins each of white linen thread, No. 18. 

2 skeins each of black linen thread, No. 18. 

1 small box of assorted pins. 

4x5 inches of fine emery paper. 

1 dozen each ordinary black and white metal buttons. 
1 dozen white linen buttons. (Run the latter on a 
large safety pin and the metal ones on a piece of 
tape.) 

A large sized thimble, size 2 is an ordinary size. 
Nos. 3, 5, 6, needles; 1 package of each. 

[198] 




DITTY BAG, OB HOUSEWIFE 

[199] 












KNITTING AND SEWING 


Stick one flap full of 2 dozen black and white safety 
pins, in 3 assorted sizes, from the largest size 
down. 

Stick the other flap full of some of the needles, a 
long, strong bodkin and 1 dozen coarse and 
medium sized darning needles, 6 of each. 

Between the two pockets tape down 3 cards of 
darning wool, grey, black and navy blue, and at one 
pocket run a spool of No. 30 sew T ing cotton on a 
sewn tape. 


[ 200 ] 


AIR PILLOW COVER 
FOR A PILLOW MEASURING 10 X 14 INCHES 

2 bone knitting needles, size 7, with tips at one end. 
6 ounces of 4-ply double knitting wool in khaki 
colour, or navy blue. 

Cast on 56 stitches. Knit in a rib of knit 2 stitches 
and purl 2 stitches for 6 rows. 



AIR PILLOW COVER 


Knit plain for 60 double rows, slipping the first 
stitch of every row. 

Knit in the rib for 6 rows and cast off. 

Make a second piece exactly like this, lay the two 
pieces together and sew up three sides, over-hand¬ 
ing them together with wool. Put the air-pillow in 

[ 201 ] 




KNITTING AND SEWING 


the case and sew up the fourth side, leaving out the 
air valve of the pillow. 

For every inch, of a larger sized pillow, in the 
width, cast on 8 more stitches, and for every inch in 
the length, knit 5 more double rows in the plain part 
of the w r ork. 


[ 202 ] 


OILSILK TOBACCO POUCH 


Cut two strips of oilsilk measuring 9 x 18 inches, 
lay the pieces together and stitch them by machine 
close to the edge, across one end and up the two 
sides, leave the other end open and turn over a very 



OILSILK TOBACCO 1 OUCH 

narrow one fold hem, stitching it down. Turn the 
pouch right side out. 

This is the most practical, waterproof kind of 
pouch and keeps the tobacco in good condition. 


[ 203 ] 








[204] 











SOCK BLOCK 


[ 205 ] 




TEAZLE BRUSH 

[ 206 ] 



V 





needle gauge [Reproduced exact size ] 

[207] • 


































































































































